Oct 13, 2010

Using Video

Lately, I have been using video to speed up my climbing evolution. I have used it extensively in the past when Oly lifting (in lieu of adequate access to a quality coach). Video help me build a simulator of a recent project and paved the direct path to sendville. I use video to remember and refine beta.

"Coffee is Life" is a good case study.

Original Beta (starting at 1:07)

Refined Beta

This video also displays the sometimes arbitrary nature of bouldering. "Coffee is Life" is immediately to the left of "Gluten is Death", using some later hands holds for foot holds. Currently, there are two stand starts. A high start left hand on crimp and right hand undercling (probably V6). A medium start starting on opposing sidepulls (probably V8). The sit down start is beyond on me. I have spent 2 days just looking for possible holds. I just don't see it. Hopefully, this video will inspire to someone to continue the evolution by adding a sit start.