Oct 15, 2010

Killing The Monkey Brain

Training: 1) 80% Bouldering

Ben Moon,
Always Classic

Notes: Despite the name, this is still power training. Short periods of intense effort coupled with long rests. I'm a big fan of systematic progression. Today, I repeated about 15 problems to get warm-up. I begin by working training projects. When I started to see diminishing returns (i.e., longer rests to generate same effort), I moved to adding thumbless ascents to the list. My thumb likes to sneak into the action. It takes self-discipline to make sure each ascent was clean. Sometimes, I repeat it just to make sure. Finished up the session with foot chip climbing. I got a dose but left plenty in the tank for the weekend.