Untied Testarossas

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Endurance

Warm-up: Flash, V0 X 3
V1 X 2
V2 X 1

Training: 1) Flash problems, up to V8, 75 minutes

2) Climbing continuously, 20 minutes

3) Prehab

Autobelays
Second only to tread walls for training Climbing Endurance

Notes: Movement training session and they had reset one of their bouldering walls. I used the opportunity to train for an upcoming indoor comp and road trip. My goal wasn't just to get to the top of the problems, but to get the top as perfectly as possible. #2 was Farlek-style, mix of hard climbing with 5.9 climbing.

A Fifth of Beethoveen

Objective: Climbing Strength, Climbing Endurance, Gymnastics

Warm-up: 1) 30 move traverse

2) Flash problems V3-V9

Training: 1) Campus
Large Rungs 1-4-6/7
Medium Rungs 1-4-5
Large Slopers 1-3-5
1-4
Medium Slopers 1-3-4
1-3-5(f)

2) 2 rounds per hand
Campus
Medium Rungs
1-4-1 X 5

3) Continuous climbing, 5.8/5.9, 20 minutes

4) Practice Gymnastics
shoulder rolls, forward rolls, handstand roll out, L-sit walk backwards, deck squats, single leg deck squats, planche flat tuck, air baby, horizontal middle split hold (HMSH)

Cooler than outside, but still not optimal

Big Sloper, Medium Sloper, Ridiculous Sloper, Large Rung

Movement's Unusable Ring Setup


Campus Sloper
Fun


Campus Sloper
Fail

Notes: It was too hot in Boulder to crank outside so I took the training session inside at Movement. Their campusboard is pretty good. I got to play on the slopers (one of my limiters). I did a quick ARC session, I haven't had the facilities do lately. It felt very easy. They have a nice padded area, perfect for gymnastics practice. The major downside is the "fitness room" does not have a pull-up bar or dip station. It does have a horrible ring setup.

Dell Hell

Objective: Climbing Endurance

Training: Easy traversing, 45 minutes

Notes: A mellow day between two hard days.

Bonus: This article has been on my mind lately, link. "Maximal Oxygen Consumption" has little or no bearing on climbing. "Lactate Threshold" and "Efficiency" are of critical importance to sport climbing. The article makes the argument for focused training on "Efficiency" for less technical sports. Given that climbing is a very technical sport, I wonder what the last figure would look like for climbing. Today was another step on my continued quest for "Efficiency".

Unnatural Carnal Copulation

Objective: Climbing Endurance

Warm-up: Flash new problems (Int X 3, Adv X 2)

Training: 2 rounds
Traverse, 15 minutes

Notes: Easy Day. Nothing fancy, just time climbing. Focus- 1) Quick, silent feet 2) Moving quickly over difficult ground. Moving slowing on easy ground to recovery.

Elbow felt funny at the end. No pain, but faintly buzzing.

I just read an article about Jim Wendler on T-nation. He said, "Most people live and die by their one-rep max. To me, this is foolish and short sighted. If your squat goes from 225 x 6 to 225 x 9, you've gotten stronger." I feel the same way about climbing. If you measure your progress by your best redpoint, it will be a rare day when you improve. That is why I look at multiple measurements, number/difficulty of climbs in day or number of tries it takes to send a grade.

Sweet Sticky Thing

Objective: Climbing Endurance

Training: 2 rounds
Continuous climbing, 20 minutes

Notes: I'm beat up from that last week of hard training. It was difficult to get motivated to do that much traversing. I still did it. A couple days of well earned rest until Mt. Charleston and Eastside granite.

Boston Marriage

Objective: Climbing Endurance & Test

Warm-up: 45 minutes of traversing, broken into 3 or 4 sections

Training: (1) Boulder pyramid
8 Recreation Problems
6 Intermediate Problems
4 Advanced Problems

Notes: I sometimes I forget Rule #1, DON'T GET INJURED!! It always takes longer to come back from an injury than I think. Today I started to push the bounds. I did an extended warm-up and did some "light" bouldering. All the problems were flashed. Towards the end, my finger started to feel weird. I stopped immediately. I don't know if the bouldering was actually harmful or I'm just hypersensitive. Either way, I want to be 100% for Charleston (even if I'm as weak as a kitten).

A Kinder, Gentler Pandemic

Objective: Climbing Endurance

Training: (1) 5 rounds
55 move traverse
Rest as need between rounds

Notes: I was too ambitious during my technique practice session on Thursday, and inflamed my injured finger. Oddly, there was no pain. I rested on Friday. I did some light traversing today as a test. I can ignore they injury and still climb relatively hard. I much rather have it completely healed.

One thing that has helped the healing process in hand putty. Typically, I use it strengthen hand extensors because climbing is flexion dominate. I have found after playing with it my injured hand has increased ROM and decreased inflammation.

You don’t have to like it, you just have to do it

Objective: Climbing Endurance, Climbing Technique

Training: Day 1 - ARC, 20 mintues
Day 2 - ARC, 30 minutes
Day 3 - ARC, 20 minutes X 2
Day 3 - ARC, 30 minutes X 2
Day 4 - ARC, 30 minutes X 2, plus "easy" bouldering

Old System Board Set-up

There were only 6 panels. They were too far apart to pull through, forcing you to match. Matching does not make you stronger. The crimp panels were blocked by the larger panels.

Reset System Board
12 panels and spaced properly to allow pulling through. If you match, you are weak. The crimp panels are no longer blocked.

Notes: Lately, I have been rehabbing my finger injury with a vengeance. I found the best method is ARC, aerobic restoration and capillarity. ARCing is climbing continuously for set amount time, 20-40 minutes. It is basically jogging on a climbing wall. It is a great opportunity to work on climbing technique, tricking you into climbing without over thinking. You will be able to climb more pitches in a day, because the increased density of the "capillary beds" will remove waste products more efficiently. You will be more comfortable climbing when slightly pumped, decreasing the likelihood of punting.

Why don't people do it? It is booorrring. I don't care. I know it is the best thing for me.

I got a job at the local gym as routesetter. My first project was resetting the system board. My next project is resetting the campus board. Watch out : 1-4-7 with standard spacing. Here I come!