Training: Day 1 - ARC, 20 mintues
Day 2 - ARC, 30 minutes
Day 3 - ARC, 20 minutes X 2
Day 3 - ARC, 30 minutes X 2
Day 4 - ARC, 30 minutes X 2, plus "easy" bouldering
Old System Board Set-up There were only 6 panels. They were too far apart to pull through, forcing you to match. Matching does not make you stronger. The crimp panels were blocked by the larger panels.
Reset System Board12 panels and spaced properly to allow pulling through. If you match, you are weak. The crimp panels are no longer blocked.
Notes: Lately, I have been rehabbing my finger injury with a vengeance. I found the best method is ARC, aerobic restoration and capillarity. ARCing is climbing continuously for set amount time, 20-40 minutes. It is basically jogging on a climbing wall. It is a great opportunity to work on climbing technique, tricking you into climbing without over thinking. You will be able to climb more pitches in a day, because the increased density of the "capillary beds" will remove waste products more efficiently. You will be more comfortable climbing when slightly pumped, decreasing the likelihood of punting.
Why don't people do it? It is booorrring. I don't care. I know it is the best thing for me.
I got a job at the local gym as routesetter. My first project was resetting the system board. My next project is resetting the campus board. Watch out : 1-4-7 with standard spacing. Here I come!
