Objective : Strength
Warmup : Snatch Practice
Training : (1) triples, Clean, 95, 135, 155
(2) doubles, deadlift high-pull, 215, 245
(3) singles, deadlift, 315, 355, 375
(4) 5 rounds
triples, deadlift, 315
15 perfect pushups
(5) 10 rounds
4 strict pullups every 30s
(6) 3 rounds
10 corkscrews, 45
6 TGU, medium weight
Notes : I'm gym rat. I have three rest days before the comp, I can sneak in a workout. Putting Cleans before deadlifts tricks your body into pulling fast and lifting heavier weights. My 1 RM is much higher than those singles, but I don't think pulling more than 2x bodyweight is going to help my climbing. I'm happier about the working sets (triples, deadlift, 315). Another chink in my fitness armor is being able to move moderatly heavy weights with little rest. Number 5 is a "test" posted by Mountain Athlete. 75% of the the pullups were chest-to-bar (CTB). Next time all of them will be CTB. I finished with a little rotational ab work. I haven't done TGU in a long time. It is a great exercise for climbers: mobility, shoulder stability, core, and little heavy breathing.
Feb 10, 2009
Busy Being Born
Objective : Climbing Power
Warm-up :(1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit # 2
(4) A bunch of Advanced problems
Training (1) Big Rungs, ladders
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
1-3-5-7-8
(2) Medium Rungs, drops
4-1-4
5-1-5
6-1-5
6-1 (f)
(3) Big Rungs, matching
two fingers
1-2
(4) Big Rungs, laddering
two fingers
1-2 (PR!!!)
(5) Small Rungs, ladders
1-4-6 X 2
(6) Medium Rungs, drops
5-1-5 X 2
(7) Random bouldering
(8) 10 rounds
1 system board lap, pinches +10 lbs
10s rest
(9) 10 rounds
1 system board lap, slopers
10s rest
Notes : First wood. My old bones take a little while to warm-up in the morning (45+ minutes). I realized my mind state is critical for campusing. I must be syked but not too jacked up. Music is key, Hold Steady were on the playlist today.
I also found the setup is the difference in making 6-1 drops. The gym's campus board is a little off (I still pine for competition spec spacing). If I setup on the 4th rung with my bottom hand, I have to stretch/hop to the 9th rung and sometimes I don't set up properly. If I setup on the 3rd rung with my bottom hand, I have to suck my legs up the bottom of the drop (or I dab). I'm leaving 6-1 alone and focus on adding weight to 5-1-5. For the record, my girlfriend doesn't think that is a good idea.
I hit a nice PR on two finger laddering. I learned from my time "under the bar", stop after a PR (even if you have more in the tank). I was very happy after the campus session and did some random bouldering (which was a mistake).
I still need to add more weight to the pinches. I didn't change the slopers because I convinced a routersetter to make all the feet on the system board horrible. They are rotated to the slopest setting. I have to try very hard to keep my feet on (training body tension) and slows me down (increase time under tension).
Warm-up :(1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit # 2
(4) A bunch of Advanced problems
Training (1) Big Rungs, ladders
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
1-3-5-7-8
(2) Medium Rungs, drops
4-1-4
5-1-5
6-1-5
6-1 (f)
(3) Big Rungs, matching
two fingers
1-2
(4) Big Rungs, laddering
two fingers
1-2 (PR!!!)
(5) Small Rungs, ladders
1-4-6 X 2
(6) Medium Rungs, drops
5-1-5 X 2
(7) Random bouldering
(8) 10 rounds
1 system board lap, pinches +10 lbs
10s rest
(9) 10 rounds
1 system board lap, slopers
10s rest
Notes : First wood. My old bones take a little while to warm-up in the morning (45+ minutes). I realized my mind state is critical for campusing. I must be syked but not too jacked up. Music is key, Hold Steady were on the playlist today.
I also found the setup is the difference in making 6-1 drops. The gym's campus board is a little off (I still pine for competition spec spacing). If I setup on the 4th rung with my bottom hand, I have to stretch/hop to the 9th rung and sometimes I don't set up properly. If I setup on the 3rd rung with my bottom hand, I have to suck my legs up the bottom of the drop (or I dab). I'm leaving 6-1 alone and focus on adding weight to 5-1-5. For the record, my girlfriend doesn't think that is a good idea.
I hit a nice PR on two finger laddering. I learned from my time "under the bar", stop after a PR (even if you have more in the tank). I was very happy after the campus session and did some random bouldering (which was a mistake).
I still need to add more weight to the pinches. I didn't change the slopers because I convinced a routersetter to make all the feet on the system board horrible. They are rotated to the slopest setting. I have to try very hard to keep my feet on (training body tension) and slows me down (increase time under tension).
Feb 8, 2009
Train (Post) Long to Go Long
Objective : Climbing Strength
Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2
(4) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes
Training : (1) Threshold Bouldering, 1 hour (stick to cave and pinch problems)
rest 10 min
(2) Climb Advance/Open problems, 1 hour (stick to 7-10 move problems)
rest 10 min
(3) 10 rounds
1 lap on system board, pinches
10 second rest
(4) 10 rounds
1 lap on system board, slopers
10 second rest
(5) Dynamic effort, 1 arm pull-ups
(6) 3 rounds
5 front lever bicycles
5 shoulder scarecrows, 5lbs X 2
(7) 3 rounds
90s ab bridge complex
10 reverse wrist curls, 10lbs
Notes : It is weird to train long for a indoor comp, but it is 3 hours of hard bouldering. I have seen other competitors not even complete the maximum 5 problems. You can't get points for the problems you don't complete. At least, I'm setting myself up for a full scorecard. The overall diffuculity of my climbing is up in the air.
This my custom hybrid of Self-Coached Climber (SCC) and Mountain Athlete (MA). SCC focus is routes, movement, and endurance. MA focus is strength and conditioning. I'm trying blend the best of both and focus on my current goals and weaknesses.
I feel like I am peaking for the contest. I surprised myself a couple of times during the threshold bouldering. The contest is suppose to be "highball", hence the focus on longer problems during the second hour. This was the first system board session. Next time I need to add weight to the pinches and move to worse slopers. The dynamic effort for 1 arms is adapted from Westside Barbell : 3 reps, as fast as possible, 40s rest. I need to add weight to the ab bridge complex.
I still had to kick myself out of the gym before I did any met-con. Met-con is not going to help me send my projects or win the competition.
Bonus : Malcolm Smith Training Video
Additional Bonus: My self-perceived list of climbing competition strengths and weaknesses. I hope to rely on my strengths and avoid my weaknesses.
Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2
(4) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes
Training : (1) Threshold Bouldering, 1 hour (stick to cave and pinch problems)
rest 10 min
(2) Climb Advance/Open problems, 1 hour (stick to 7-10 move problems)
rest 10 min
(3) 10 rounds
1 lap on system board, pinches
10 second rest
(4) 10 rounds
1 lap on system board, slopers
10 second rest
(5) Dynamic effort, 1 arm pull-ups
(6) 3 rounds
5 front lever bicycles
5 shoulder scarecrows, 5lbs X 2
(7) 3 rounds
90s ab bridge complex
10 reverse wrist curls, 10lbs
Notes : It is weird to train long for a indoor comp, but it is 3 hours of hard bouldering. I have seen other competitors not even complete the maximum 5 problems. You can't get points for the problems you don't complete. At least, I'm setting myself up for a full scorecard. The overall diffuculity of my climbing is up in the air.
This my custom hybrid of Self-Coached Climber (SCC) and Mountain Athlete (MA). SCC focus is routes, movement, and endurance. MA focus is strength and conditioning. I'm trying blend the best of both and focus on my current goals and weaknesses.
I feel like I am peaking for the contest. I surprised myself a couple of times during the threshold bouldering. The contest is suppose to be "highball", hence the focus on longer problems during the second hour. This was the first system board session. Next time I need to add weight to the pinches and move to worse slopers. The dynamic effort for 1 arms is adapted from Westside Barbell : 3 reps, as fast as possible, 40s rest. I need to add weight to the ab bridge complex.
I still had to kick myself out of the gym before I did any met-con. Met-con is not going to help me send my projects or win the competition.
Bonus : Malcolm Smith Training Video
I climbed the systems board how he suggests. It is great advice to get strong, not the best technique advice for less experienced climbers.
Additional Bonus: My self-perceived list of climbing competition strengths and weaknesses. I hope to rely on my strengths and avoid my weaknesses.
Strengths :
crimps, pockets, long pulls, body tension, vertical/slightly overhanging, reading problems, technique, climbing endurance, and eye of the tiger
Weaknesses :
slopers, pinches, matching, dynos, roofs, finding heelhooks on flash attempts, climbing strength, and confidence
crimps, pockets, long pulls, body tension, vertical/slightly overhanging, reading problems, technique, climbing endurance, and eye of the tiger
Weaknesses :
slopers, pinches, matching, dynos, roofs, finding heelhooks on flash attempts, climbing strength, and confidence
Feb 7, 2009
Pourdre? Hell, I Didn’t Even Know Her!
Objective : Performance
Routes Sent : Churchull Rejects,9+, onsight (cold fingers, a little funky at the chains)
Route with a view, 10c, onsight (sun=warmth, hard crux)
Uneedaluebben, 11a, onsight (varied climbing, i'm bad at turning roofs)
Total Points : 11
Routes Tried : Small Fry, 12b, epic fail on flash (bailed at 3rd bolt due to lack of sensation in fingertips)
Notes : Kinda disappointing. I was a good boy and took 3 rest days to send my proj - Rapid Fire, 12b/13a. Only to be rewarded with too-cold-to-crank conditions at The Palace. I bailed and went to the gym for fun. I flashed a bunch of new problems and refined my beta on some diffucult moves. I'm ready to go, but it is still the "pre-season" for CO sport climbing.
Routes Sent : Churchull Rejects,9+, onsight (cold fingers, a little funky at the chains)
Route with a view, 10c, onsight (sun=warmth, hard crux)
Uneedaluebben, 11a, onsight (varied climbing, i'm bad at turning roofs)
Total Points : 11
Routes Tried : Small Fry, 12b, epic fail on flash (bailed at 3rd bolt due to lack of sensation in fingertips)
Notes : Kinda disappointing. I was a good boy and took 3 rest days to send my proj - Rapid Fire, 12b/13a. Only to be rewarded with too-cold-to-crank conditions at The Palace. I bailed and went to the gym for fun. I flashed a bunch of new problems and refined my beta on some diffucult moves. I'm ready to go, but it is still the "pre-season" for CO sport climbing.
Feb 5, 2009
Feb 3, 2009
When You Are A Self-Coached Climber, You Have A Dumb Coach
Objective : Power
Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Climb new Intermediate problems (flash, up and down)
(4) Climb new Advanced and Open Problem (2nd go and fail, respectively)
Training : (1) Big Rungs, ladders
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
1-3-5-7-8 (fail)
(2) Medium Rungs, drops
4-1-4
5-1-5
6-1-5
6-1
Notes : Before work session with just me and the routesetters. Nice. I was struggling on my warm-up Circuit #1. (Silly Rationalization #1 : It is early, and my body takes a little while to warm-up.) I didn't flash the Advanced problem. (Silly Rationalization #2 : I missed a poorly taped foot.) I fail on the big rungs ladders. (Silly Rationalization #3 : It takes a long time for me to warm-up.) I had no juice to go back up on the drops. I ended the training session. If I had a real coach, he would have sent me home during the warm-ups. I'm taking several days of rest.
Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Climb new Intermediate problems (flash, up and down)
(4) Climb new Advanced and Open Problem (2nd go and fail, respectively)
Training : (1) Big Rungs, ladders
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
1-3-5-7-8 (fail)
(2) Medium Rungs, drops
4-1-4
5-1-5
6-1-5
6-1
Notes : Before work session with just me and the routesetters. Nice. I was struggling on my warm-up Circuit #1. (Silly Rationalization #1 : It is early, and my body takes a little while to warm-up.) I didn't flash the Advanced problem. (Silly Rationalization #2 : I missed a poorly taped foot.) I fail on the big rungs ladders. (Silly Rationalization #3 : It takes a long time for me to warm-up.) I had no juice to go back up on the drops. I ended the training session. If I had a real coach, he would have sent me home during the warm-ups. I'm taking several days of rest.
Feb 1, 2009
Who Doesn't Lip-Sync Their Performance Anymore?
Objective : Climbing Stamina, Work Capacity
Warm-up: (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Climb new Advance and Intermediate problems (flash, up and down)
Training : (1) Climb Advance/Open problem
rest 2-5 minutes
Climb same problem +10lbs
rest 2-5 minutes
repeat for 2 hours
(2) 4 rounds
1 arm pull-up
mini leg-blaster
(3) 4 rounds
front lever
10, reverse wrist curls, 10 lbs
(4) 5 rounds
triples, strict press, 115
5, pistols
(5) 5 rounds
15, weighted situps, 45 lbs
10, KB floor press, 35 lbs
Notes : Trying to build stamina for the contest while keeping things interesting. The weight vest is new and very interesting. Repeating the problem without weight helps to refine my technique. I have to be on point, which is an essential element of technique, because when I add the weight vest there will be less room for error or hesitation. During the process, I'm tricking myself into high volume. The "suck factor" is an exponential function of the length the boulder problem. I was able to repeat almost all the Advanced problems and several of the Open problems with 10lbs. Next session, I going up to +15.
There are only 2 problems in the gym I haven't done. One is V12/13, a little outside my current abilities, and the other is all wide pinches, one of major weaknesses. I generally ignore wide pinches because they are not common outside. Right now, I plan on hitting them hard until the comp. That undone problem will be a good benchmark.
Warm-up: (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Climb new Advance and Intermediate problems (flash, up and down)
Training : (1) Climb Advance/Open problem
rest 2-5 minutes
Climb same problem +10lbs
rest 2-5 minutes
repeat for 2 hours
(2) 4 rounds
1 arm pull-up
mini leg-blaster
(3) 4 rounds
front lever
10, reverse wrist curls, 10 lbs
(4) 5 rounds
triples, strict press, 115
5, pistols
(5) 5 rounds
15, weighted situps, 45 lbs
10, KB floor press, 35 lbs
Notes : Trying to build stamina for the contest while keeping things interesting. The weight vest is new and very interesting. Repeating the problem without weight helps to refine my technique. I have to be on point, which is an essential element of technique, because when I add the weight vest there will be less room for error or hesitation. During the process, I'm tricking myself into high volume. The "suck factor" is an exponential function of the length the boulder problem. I was able to repeat almost all the Advanced problems and several of the Open problems with 10lbs. Next session, I going up to +15.
There are only 2 problems in the gym I haven't done. One is V12/13, a little outside my current abilities, and the other is all wide pinches, one of major weaknesses. I generally ignore wide pinches because they are not common outside. Right now, I plan on hitting them hard until the comp. That undone problem will be a good benchmark.
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