Feb 1, 2009

Who Doesn't Lip-Sync Their Performance Anymore?

Objective : Climbing Stamina, Work Capacity

Warm-up: (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Climb new Advance and Intermediate problems (flash, up and down)

Training : (1) Climb Advance/Open problem
rest 2-5 minutes
Climb same problem +10lbs
rest 2-5 minutes
repeat for 2 hours

(2) 4 rounds
1 arm pull-up
mini leg-blaster

(3) 4 rounds
front lever
10, reverse wrist curls, 10 lbs

(4) 5 rounds
triples, strict press, 115
5, pistols

(5) 5 rounds
15, weighted situps, 45 lbs
10, KB floor press, 35 lbs

Notes : Trying to build stamina for the contest while keeping things interesting. The weight vest is new and very interesting. Repeating the problem without weight helps to refine my technique. I have to be on point, which is an essential element of technique, because when I add the weight vest there will be less room for error or hesitation. During the process, I'm tricking myself into high volume. The "suck factor" is an exponential function of the length the boulder problem. I was able to repeat almost all the Advanced problems and several of the Open problems with 10lbs. Next session, I going up to +15.

There are only 2 problems in the gym I haven't done. One is V12/13, a little outside my current abilities, and the other is all wide pinches, one of major weaknesses. I generally ignore wide pinches because they are not common outside. Right now, I plan on hitting them hard until the comp. That undone problem will be a good benchmark.