Objective : Climbing Power
Warm-up :(1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit # 2
(4) A bunch of Advanced problems
Training (1) Big Rungs, ladders
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8
1-3-5-7-8
(2) Medium Rungs, drops
4-1-4
5-1-5
6-1-5
6-1 (f)
(3) Big Rungs, matching
two fingers
1-2
(4) Big Rungs, laddering
two fingers
1-2 (PR!!!)
(5) Small Rungs, ladders
1-4-6 X 2
(6) Medium Rungs, drops
5-1-5 X 2
(7) Random bouldering
(8) 10 rounds
1 system board lap, pinches +10 lbs
10s rest
(9) 10 rounds
1 system board lap, slopers
10s rest
Notes : First wood. My old bones take a little while to warm-up in the morning (45+ minutes). I realized my mind state is critical for campusing. I must be syked but not too jacked up. Music is key, Hold Steady were on the playlist today.
I also found the setup is the difference in making 6-1 drops. The gym's campus board is a little off (I still pine for competition spec spacing). If I setup on the 4th rung with my bottom hand, I have to stretch/hop to the 9th rung and sometimes I don't set up properly. If I setup on the 3rd rung with my bottom hand, I have to suck my legs up the bottom of the drop (or I dab). I'm leaving 6-1 alone and focus on adding weight to 5-1-5. For the record, my girlfriend doesn't think that is a good idea.
I hit a nice PR on two finger laddering. I learned from my time "under the bar", stop after a PR (even if you have more in the tank). I was very happy after the campus session and did some random bouldering (which was a mistake).
I still need to add more weight to the pinches. I didn't change the slopers because I convinced a routersetter to make all the feet on the system board horrible. They are rotated to the slopest setting. I have to try very hard to keep my feet on (training body tension) and slows me down (increase time under tension).
