Warm-up : (1) Circuit #1
(2) Mobility Drills
(3) Circuit #2
(4) Dyno Practice, 10 minutes
Training : (1) Threshold Bouldering, 1 hour (stick to cave and pinch problems)
rest 10 min
(2) Climb Advance/Open problems, 1 hour (stick to 7-10 move problems)
rest 10 min
(3) 10 rounds
1 lap on system board, pinches
10 second rest
(4) 10 rounds
1 lap on system board, slopers
10 second rest
(5) Dynamic effort, 1 arm pull-ups
(6) 3 rounds
5 front lever bicycles
5 shoulder scarecrows, 5lbs X 2
(7) 3 rounds
90s ab bridge complex
10 reverse wrist curls, 10lbs
Notes : It is weird to train long for a indoor comp, but it is 3 hours of hard bouldering. I have seen other competitors not even complete the maximum 5 problems. You can't get points for the problems you don't complete. At least, I'm setting myself up for a full scorecard. The overall diffuculity of my climbing is up in the air.
This my custom hybrid of Self-Coached Climber (SCC) and Mountain Athlete (MA). SCC focus is routes, movement, and endurance. MA focus is strength and conditioning. I'm trying blend the best of both and focus on my current goals and weaknesses.
I feel like I am peaking for the contest. I surprised myself a couple of times during the threshold bouldering. The contest is suppose to be "highball", hence the focus on longer problems during the second hour. This was the first system board session. Next time I need to add weight to the pinches and move to worse slopers. The dynamic effort for 1 arms is adapted from Westside Barbell : 3 reps, as fast as possible, 40s rest. I need to add weight to the ab bridge complex.
I still had to kick myself out of the gym before I did any met-con. Met-con is not going to help me send my projects or win the competition.
Bonus : Malcolm Smith Training Video
I climbed the systems board how he suggests. It is great advice to get strong, not the best technique advice for less experienced climbers.
Additional Bonus: My self-perceived list of climbing competition strengths and weaknesses. I hope to rely on my strengths and avoid my weaknesses.
Strengths :
crimps, pockets, long pulls, body tension, vertical/slightly overhanging, reading problems, technique, climbing endurance, and eye of the tiger
Weaknesses :
slopers, pinches, matching, dynos, roofs, finding heelhooks on flash attempts, climbing strength, and confidence
crimps, pockets, long pulls, body tension, vertical/slightly overhanging, reading problems, technique, climbing endurance, and eye of the tiger
Weaknesses :
slopers, pinches, matching, dynos, roofs, finding heelhooks on flash attempts, climbing strength, and confidence
