If You Want Fluff, Pat A Bunny

Training: 1) Technique

2) Campus

3) Yoga, 2 blocks

4) Technique

5) Threshold Bouldering

Notes: The weather has gone pearshaped. Providing an opportunity for a significant microcycle of training. Planning an exit strategy, also.

#1 Worked on perfect feet (foot hover, place feet w/o moving, silent) into mircorest #2 I'm reading The 4 Hour Body (4HB). Breathtaking in breath & depth. One important nugget of knowledge from the book is Minimum Effective Dose (MED). In the past, I have program the maximum sustainable campus session. For me, that is about 10 sets per arm. Lately, I'm doing the opposite - programing the MED of campusing. For me, that is 2 sets per arm. It is working great! As the wise bodybuilders say, "Stimulate, Don't Annihilate." Medium rungs - 1-2-6 & 1-4-5 #3 I'm using another concept from 4HB - Pareto Analysis. Only about 10 yoga poses get ~90 of the effect I'm looking for. The rest/majority is fluff. #4 Same as #1. #5 Pathetic. Just digging a recovery hole. I have an idiot for a coach, aka myself.

Nongaussian Errors in the Residuals

Performance:

1) Work Project

Training:

1) Campus

2) Repeats

3) Hangboard

4) Prehab

I'm a big fan of tactics.
The space heater made all the difference for this session.

Notes: Last day outside in CO before CA holiday break. High of 36. Warmed-up on home wall.

#1 - Did all the moves on my project. Some small links. Definitely V10 for me. A V8 (4 moves) into a V7 (6 moves) then topout (2 easy moves).

Short training session. No time for technique. Rewarmed-up by climbing a circuit which included most of the comp problems I did and some harder stuff. Interesting!

#1 1st Medium Rung microcycle session. Did 1-5. Not too bad #2 Repeats went really well. #3 Open hand switches. Skin was tired.

Playing Chess While Wrestling

Training: 1) Yoga, 2 blocks

2) Technique

3) Campus

4) Repeats

5) Prehab

Bonus: I tested my 1-arm pull-ups. I can two full ROM dead-hang 1-arm pull-ups with each arm. Do I really need anymore?

I'm chasing Power, Technique, & Mobility. All parallel goals.
What are you chasing?

Notes: Long Yoga session. Short & Hard climbing session

#1 Sunday Yoga is the same every week. It is my tester. While Thursday Yoga, my private practice, and daily mobility drills are builders. Seeing progress. #2 Worked on keeping one foot on while stepping high or outside with the other. Easy movements today #3 Last Big Rung microcyle session. Did 1-5-7 without too much trouble. Tried and almost got 1-6. All mental #4 Repeats went really well. Feel like I'm micro peaking. Time to be extra careful #5 My left shoulder is back to fully functional. 2 weeks of smart focused training improved the situation. It is almost like this stuff works.

Solastalgia

Performance: 1) Too busy climbing ..., V0/2 (Stand/Sit)

2) Zombie Land, V5/6

3) I can't fight your war ... , V7

Training: 1) Yoga, 2 blocks

2) Technique

3) Campus

4) Random Repeats

The "hourglass" shape in the rock were the original holds

Sometimes Destruction comes before Creation

Notes: Great day at Red Feather! Knocked down some reasonable projects. Lots of unreasonable projects left.

#1 2nd Yoga session of this cycle, getting more in the groove. Yes, I even periodize my yoga. #2 I was not in the mood for technique but did it anyways. Typically, I use time prioritized training for technique, e.g. 10 minutes focusing on crossing moves. Today I borrowed a page from CrossFit and used task prioritized training. I did 100 cross moves. ~50% were easy, ~40% were hard, and ~10% were project level. (Not for time because that would be silly and counterproductive for skill work) #3 2nd Campus session of this cycle, getting more in the groove. I always forget how skill based campusing is. Still Big Run microcycle. I worked up to 1-2-6. Failed on 1-3-7. #4 Today was a Medium Day so the repeats were easier.

Growing Tall vs. Growing Up

Training: 1) Technique

2) Technique

3) Campus/Mobility

4) Techniq

Scott Hagnas on Hip Mobility
(Sorry I'm having trouble embedding .mov)

Notes: My legs are still not recovered from the competition. Using open handholds in routesetting encourages using large footholds, heel-hooks in particular. Since I'm weak on open handholds, my legs took a beating.

#1 Climbed outside at Horsetooth Reservoir. That place is classic but not good. Mostly got on slabs (no handed). It was nice being outside. #2 Climbed the easier problems from the competition. Repeated each one until perfect #3 The plan is to hammer power (along with technique) this cycle. Experimenting with using pendulum wave loading, ala Westside. This week was Big Rungs & Big Moves. Next week will be Big Rungs & Big Pull-Throughs. The following week will be Big Rungs & Big Moves/Pull-Throughs. Then the same progression will start over with Medium Rungs. Here are My Campus Logs if you're curious. #4 Climbed Open level problems with any feet. Noticing how my intuitive technique is the same or different from the forced sequence. Did several Open Problems with different sequences. Exploring movement possibilities.

Killing The Monkey Brain

Training: 1) 80% Bouldering

Ben Moon,
Always Classic

Notes: Despite the name, this is still power training. Short periods of intense effort coupled with long rests. I'm a big fan of systematic progression. Today, I repeated about 15 problems to get warm-up. I begin by working training projects. When I started to see diminishing returns (i.e., longer rests to generate same effort), I moved to adding thumbless ascents to the list. My thumb likes to sneak into the action. It takes self-discipline to make sure each ascent was clean. Sometimes, I repeat it just to make sure. Finished up the session with foot chip climbing. I got a dose but left plenty in the tank for the weekend.

Suspiciously Straight Lines

Training: 1) Technique

2) Campus
Ladder, Medium Rungs, 1-5-8*
Ladder, Small Rungs, 1-4-7X4

3) Flash Ladder

4) Press, 3x5, 115

5) 3 rounds
1-arm pull-up, each arm
10s plank, 1-arm (ring), 1-foot

6) Prehab & Hanging leg raises

* Nonregulation spacing

Notes: Back from a short, fun trip to Lake Tahoe. Still early in the season, i.e. climb in the morning, hangout at the lake, and climb in the evening. There is a general lack of quality problems (in the guidebook) harder than V8. The granite did a number on my skin. Need to build it up for the season. Video ticklist in production.

Listening to the feedback from the last trip. Moved well. Strong enough to give rapid fire tries, which helped to figure out sequences and send. A major, but often forgotten, benefit of strength. No major tweaking in my program. Just increase training volume so I can climb more problems outside.

Went to a "seminal" climbing gym in the US. It was not great. 75% of the holds are pinches. 100% of the holds on problems harder than V7 are pinches. I suck on pinches and don't see a reason to get better. #1 Focused on relaxing and quality movement #2 I was "forced" to campus. The gym has a nonregulation spacing. VERY LAME! It was fun and hard but meaningless. #3 Not only am I weak on pinches, I have very little capacity on them. Most problem went like this: Preview, Setup, Flash most of it, Hard Pinch Move, Fall. #4-6 The conventional gym part really sucks. Too much equipment wedged into a cave. The squat rack faced a mirror which completely throws off my squats. I settled for pressing. My numbers are way off my PRs but it doesn't matter since it is just cross training.

Pragmatic Minimalism

Training: 1) Threshold Bouldering, 2 blocks

1st panel completed

Notes: Super Syked. Just in time, it is starting to cool off in CO. The fall season is on the horizon. Best training facility I have ever had unfettered access too. It would be finished but got sandbagged by drill batteries. Shoulda went with Lithium.

Running East Looking For a Sunset

1) CC, Continuous Climbing

2) Threshold Bouldering

3) Bouldering

The Physical Manifestation of The Climbing Lab

Notes: #1 The goal of Continuous Climbing is to enter a flow state. Minimal thinking, maximal movement. The rest of the session was helped by this created mental state. #2 Worked limit level moves. Repeated them if they had slop I could remove. #3 Focused on sending my "Triple Crown", the three hardest problems in the gym. I fell off the last move of the last problem! Soon I'll need a new training benchmark. Wanted to repeat #1 but the gym was way too crowded by 4pm!

Near Life Experience

1) Threshold Bouldering

2) VIR

Notes: I'm getting bored following Elemental Fitness Programming. Partly, a function of my training facility (I'm working every day on improving that situation). Partly, I have fitness ADD (like most recovering CrossFitters). I went back to Self Coach Climbing programming. The blocks are typically longer. #1 Threshold Bouldering focuses on single hard moves (up to 3 moves in a row sometimes). Whereas, Bouldering focuses on sending. #2 I did all the "Advanced" problems right to left in the gym (~12). I wasn't sure if I could do them in a session. Next time I will repeat them for time (Damn! CrossFit rears it's head).

I'm looking forward to the Self Coach Climbing authors' new book.

And I wish I knew Italian.

Narrative Fallacy

Training: 1) Technique

2) Bouldering

3) RI, 5 minutes

4) Mobility

Notes: #1 2nd dyno session - reinforced the basics, moved to bigger, compression and started awkard dynos #2 Making nice gains. Focused on smooth linking of moves #3 lost interest #4 working through my stuff, mainly neck and wrist, nothing major.

Ready To Blow Like a Stuffy Nose

Training: 1) Flash, ALL new problems

2) Campus, Throws
Small Rungs 1-4-1 X 3
3 sets each arm

3) Campus, Ladder

Large Rung, 1-4-7 (fail)

4) Threshold Bouldering, System Board, 45 minutes

5) Dynamic Effort, 1-arms

Proper Threshold Bouldering

Notes: Don't get me wrong, I love my training but I want to get outside. The current cold snap is killing me. I want to apply my new found strength to some quality problems. I need to add weight to the campus throws, SCARY. I wanted to see if I could do 1-4-7 when fatigued. The answer is NO.

My threshold bouldering has a progression, like all my training. I pick out the movement (it all starts with movement), I do the "problem" the easiest way. Then I start making things harder, e.g. moving holds apart, climbing it "open," and doing it without feet cutting. I generally aim for success 4/5ths of the time. I catalog the variations I fall on and come back to them. Today I was able to send a couple of variations that were giving me trouble last session. Linear progress, one foundational element of athletic development.

Decorating My Coffin

Training:
02/06/09
1) Campus, Ladder, Large Rungs
1-4-7 X 2

2) Campus, Ladder, Medium Rungs
1-4-6 X 3

3) 1-arm pull-ups, Right arm only
3 with complete rest

02/07/09
1) Threshold Bouldering, System Board

2) Open Hand and 1/2 Crimp Hangs

3) 1-arm pull-ups,
Left, +3, +5, +8 (PR!)
Right, +3, +3, +3

4) Repetitive Effort, Last 3'' of 1-arm pull-up

5) Abs

Notes: Back in the training game. It took me a little while to get my head right. I'm solidifying my current campus level before moving up. Getting to the next level in campusing is always a quantum leap. I have a weakness with right arm 1-armers. Getting after that weakness with more volume. A satisfying PR on with my left arm.

The weakness part of my 1-armers is the top. I'm taking a page from Westside and targeting that limiter. I'm doing limited range of motion for 6-8 reps. I'm not doing isometrics for a couple reasons. Isometrics are difficult to setup, typically requiring a chain attached to the floor in order to pull maximally. Just locking things off, both on the pull-up bar and during climbing, is "training to be slow" and from what I have seen, messes up everyone's technique. In addition, isometrics should be hard (rarely do I see any one do isometrics at the proper level). Isometrics done at the proper level would take away from my other training. On the other hand, Repetitive Effort doesn't dig a huge recovery hole.

Right now, I'm only interested in bouldering and short routes (and training for a possible b-day challenge). My training reflects that.

Training Under the Sword of Damocles

Warm-up: 1) Flash, Easy Problems, 20 minutes

2) Mobility Drills

Training: 1) Flash, Hard Problems, 30 minutes

2) Work, Harder Problems, 90 minutes

Notes: Back to the basics, just bouldering. A good volume. with a focus on harder problems.

The Pearl is an Oyster's Autobiography

Training: 1) Campus, Ladders, Medium Rungs

1-4-7(f)

2) Campus, Double Medium Rungs

1-3-2-4

1-4-3

1-3-2-4

1-3-2-4

1-3-2-4

3) Perfect Climbing, Repeat Problems, Adv & Open

It was something like this:

Notes: I felt like I could've hit #1 a couple of days ago but today's outside bouldering took it out of me. Where are my priorities? The doubles went well, I tried to keep things snappy. I could have pushed it more but I'm training to be fast. I repeated problems until I started to fade a little bit. The whole session was under 1 hour.

Wanna Be Gunslinger, Trying the Todd Skinner Workout

Date: 11/14/10
Location: The Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder, CO
Training: Power Oriented Bouldering

Date: 11/15/10
Location: Movement Climbing + Fitness, Boulder, CO
Training: Endurance Oriented Routes

Notes: I'm floating in the ether, programming wise. I've made a solid short run at linear strength gains. I need to switch gears to prepare for the spring sport climbing season. I decided to try the Todd Skinner Workout during this transition period. I'm a sucker for trying different workouts. I scaled down the first day by skipping the dips and finger rolls. I did large volume of 11s and 12s on the second day, until I "hit the wall."

The hardest part of the program is a lack of facilities (it is hard to complain compared to Todd Skinner's time). The Spot doesn't have power orientated bouldering. I only did the first 5-10 moves (out of 15-20 complete moves). Movement was great for having lots of hard "trainers", consistent power endurance routes. I could follow this program in Boulder but I usually don't spend time in Boulder. I just happened to be there for work. I give the workout one of the biggest compliments I can- I felt productively trashed.

Yoga Butt

Training: 1) Flash, New Problems, 20 minutes

2) Campus, Ladders, Large Rungs
1-4-6
1-4-7

3) Campus, Ladders, Medium Rungs
1-4-6

4) Flash, New Problems, 30 minutes

5) Open Hand, Hangboard
Flat Sloper, Switches

6) 1/2 Crimp, Systemboard
#1, Pull Through

7) Full Crimp *

Notes: I was looking forward to campusing, but my body thought otherwise. During the warm up set, the inside of my right elbow started to hurt. I was feeling very strong so I ignored it. I realized I was being an idiot and went back to bouldering. I think the injury's root is from getting gripped during a sketchy top-out early in the day. It felt better as the session went on.

I did 2x the number of laps on #6 than my usual. For the full crimp, I hung 1-arm on the smallest campus rung (with one finger on the other hand on the lowest rung for assistance). Ran out of time for assistance work and prehab.

If you don't have it, Don't hit it

Training: 1) Flash, All Hard Routes, 30 minutes

2) Campus, Ladders, Large Rungs

1-4-6

1-4-7

1-4-7

3) Campus, Throws, Small Rungs

1-4-1 x 3

1-4-1 x 3

4) Perfect Climbing, Adv & Open Problems, 20 minutes

Angle of the Dangle

Notes: I have just enough power endurance for gym climbing. Once I leave CO, aka Hoth, I will have a rude awakening. I felt really strong and it showed with 2 training PRs. I was building towards 1-4-7 for a couple of months. I didn't want to hit it unless I had it. 1-4-1 x 3 was a rep PR, but a PR none the less. Keeping expectations high while raising intensity.

I Brake For Tailgaters

Training: 1) Campus, Doubles, Large Rungs

1-4

1-5 (fail)

1-5 (fail)

2) Campus, Doubles, Medium Rungs

1-3

1-4 (fail)

1-4 (fail)

1-4

3) Campus, Ladder, Large Rungs

1-4-6

1-5-6

1) Campus, Doubles, Large Rungs

1-4

1-4

Notes: Outside was a good warm-up for campusing. Still can't hit 1-5 double. A nice PR on 1-4, double, medium rungs. Building capacity, #3 & #4.

Inter Alia

Training: 1) Campus, Throws, Medium Rungs
1-4-1 X 3

2) Campus, Throws, Small Rungs
1-4-1 X 2
1-4-1 X 2

3) Campus, Throws, Medium Rungs
1-4-1 X 3
1-4-1 X 3

4) Technique, Perfect Climbing, Adv Problems, 30 minutes

Notes: I'm trying to campus 2 x week, 72 hours between sessions. I'll back off at the first signs of injury. Switched it up again with Throws. I increased the volume of #4 by 10 minutes this session.

I abandoned my most recent training plan, focusing on Technique/Long Power Endurance. Training Long Power Endurance was awkward because of my current facilities. I'm rectifying that by building a home wall. It is slow going because I want it to be good. I was hoping for upcoming sport climbing trips to keep me syked. Those fell through. They are turning into bouldering trips. I'm in limbo right now. I'll continue to focus on technique and getting stronger. I'm trying to align my training with my goals, my limiters, current outside conditions, and training facilities.

"Endurance routes get easier.
Hard moves are always hard moves."

Jerry Moffat