Addicted to My Enemies

Training: 1) Flash New Problems

2) Technique, Dynos

3) Repeat 5 Adv Problems, +1 lb ankle weights

4) Open Hand, Systemboard
Lower Left, Big Feet, +5lbs

5) 1/2 Crimp, (Fail - skin)

6) Wide Moves, Systemboard
Skip 1 over and 1 up, +3lbs

7) 1-arm pull-ups
Left - +10lbs (PR!), 9, 9, 9
Right - +5lbs (PR!), 3, 3, 3

8) Ryhthm Intervals, 3 rounds
Level 2, 2, 1

Notes: I'm naturally transitioning to a new cycle. My primary focus will be outside performance climbing. I will still be training indoors, treating weaknesses identified from outside, dictated by the capricious CO weather.

#3 & #4 - Trying to stay ahead of the "Law of Accommodation" by judiciously using weight. In the past, I went too fast and too hard. I'm starting slow with plenty of room to progress, a key to successful training. For example, I can vary hold size (3 levels), foot size (3 levels), and weight (infinite levels) for each grip type on Systemboard ladders.

#5 - After the last two days outside, skin is a limiting factor.

#6 -I had difficulties on a large move between medium sized holds on a problem outside.

#7 - PRs are still coming. My training guideline is: Set a new PR, Drop down to 90% to solidify it, and Go home.

#8 - Not much in the tank for conditioning.

Poudre Canyon, Spring is Coming

I went to a new-to-me area for the tail end of the Ice Bloc season. The first boulder was on snow bridge, water was running under the boulder and 3ft behind the pads! It yielded 2 quality lines. The Green Line is one of the best lines I have climbed lately.

Green Line, V7 - SDS on slopers, make a couple of moves to get established for big move out left
Yellow Line, V4 - SDS to crimps, traverse left until it feels okay to finish

Sketchy Landing

The second boulder was 20ft upstream from the first.
The rock was less compact than the first one with yummy golden granite slopers.

Pink Line, V5 - SDS, crimps to slopers, back to crimp finish
Red, V2/3 - SDS, powerful sloper moves, exit via ramp to avoid loose blocks

This wall is on the border between high ball boulder and short sport climbing.

I missed the window for this bloc, the ice is breaking up under it.

Postholing through the ice into the river.
YIKESSSS!!

Saturday Syke Video

Klem, Always Classic.

For the record-

I would send all my projects if someone screamed in Austrian at me.

The Palace, Stil The Pre-season

Routes Sent: River Rats, 7, Onsight (good stuff)
Creepy, 10b, Onsight (more than 1 star in my book)
Flail, 11a, Onsight (fun crux, heinous post-crux climbing, wish I'd some micronuts)

Routes Tried: Where's the Beef?, 12b/c, 1.5 tries (not three stars, needs to be cleaned, went numb)

Notes: Alex and I cranked for a beautiful 1/2 day at The Palace. Alex is on the patented Climbing Lab Rehab Program so went to the Poudre Face. I forgot that The Palace is a winter place, it was shirt off weather in the sun. It was nice having a good guidebook. The last time I went to the cliff I spent too much time on the approach, even though you can see the cliff from the road, and looking for climbs.

Information for the next edition of the guidebook:

- There are another 7, lower quality, that goes to the same anchor as River Rats. Either it is Turtle Head or not listed in the guide.

- Micronuts on Flail would be helpful during longish runout between the 6th & 7th bolt.

- The last bolt on Where's the Beef is missing a hanger. Not a big deal since the climbing is much easier (but the rock is a little loose).

SRR Boulders, Laying The Foundation

The residue of the last little winter storm forced me to dig into my winter bouldering stash at the SRR Boulders. They tend to get less snow and more sun than other sectors. I threw a rope on the best line, the "prow" of the upper boulder. It cleaned it up nice. When it came time to climb, I wasn't feeling it. The landing is scree, awkward and sketchy. Even though there are multiple harder lines, V10+, on good rock, I'm letting them go until I can come back with a syked crew.

Residue of Winter

Work Site

Residue of Work

Rad Spider

I spent the rest of the afternoon postholing around. I found a new, at least to me, sector. (Sorry, no pictures since I didn't bring my camera). It is nice because it doesn't require a river crossing, critical in the upcoming months.

What I take for granted ...

I spend way too much time in climbing gyms. When I compare what I do in the gym to other people, I'm a freaking space alien. I thought most of what I do is just common sense, coming from a competitive sports background. There are training days and "game" days. Gym days are training days. I'm there to get better, everything else is a bonus.

Here is a short list of stuff I've seen in the last week :

Attitude
If you are cracking jokes and texting people, you are not sending at your limit. I understand one of the biggest appeals of climbing is the social scene. Try focusing for a little while. You might just learn more and maybe enjoy the process. Don't expect Olympic level performance, if you're acting like its recess.

Crimping Pockets
There aren't a lot of pockets in most gyms* but when they are present, people climb them stupid. I know you can crimp some pockets. DON'T!!! Use a little resistant. You'll screw yourself up. Everyone does stupid stuff (including me). Just limit the amount of your stupid stuff. Either get stronger so you can climb on them right or leave them alone. It is just some stupid problem set in a gym. You don't have to send it.

Side note - If you feet cut on every move, leave pockets alone. I would also avoid crimps.

Projecting Every Day
Yesterday, you were falling off that problem for a couple of hours. You didn't get stronger overnight, especially when your recovery involved pizza and a pitcher of beer. You're probably going to fall on it today. Again - It is just some stupid problem set in a gym. You don't have to send it. There are 50 other problems. Even if by some miracle you send it, is it making you a better climber?

Warm-up
I warm-up everyday (If it is important, do it every day). I know Mr. V-double-digits doesn't warm-up. Warm-up doesn't mean doing random stretching (Only in the ways are you're already flexible). It doesn't mean jogging. Just climb a couple of things. Rest a bit and climb a couple more harder things. Check in with your body. You might be shocked in what you find.

What happens if you changed your mindset, got critical, trained hard, and came back in 6 months. Maybe you could flash at the same level you used to project. That's what I did. Instead of bashing yourself into a brick wall, take a step back and jump over it.

* I find this odd because there are pockets outside. Most outside pockets are sharper and tweakier than gym pockets. I rather learn how my body reacts in a controlled environment. However, every gym has fat pinches. I don't find fat pinches outside.

Video Evidence

Just Another Wednesday ...

One of the best "routes" in Poudre Canyon