Feb 28, 2010

Addicted to My Enemies

Training: 1) Flash New Problems

2) Technique, Dynos

3) Repeat 5 Adv Problems, +1 lb ankle weights

4) Open Hand, Systemboard
Lower Left, Big Feet, +5lbs

5) 1/2 Crimp, (Fail - skin)

6) Wide Moves, Systemboard
Skip 1 over and 1 up, +3lbs

7) 1-arm pull-ups
Left - +10lbs (PR!), 9, 9, 9
Right - +5lbs (PR!), 3, 3, 3

8) Ryhthm Intervals, 3 rounds
Level 2, 2, 1

Notes: I'm naturally transitioning to a new cycle. My primary focus will be outside performance climbing. I will still be training indoors, treating weaknesses identified from outside, dictated by the capricious CO weather.

#3 & #4 - Trying to stay ahead of the "Law of Accommodation" by judiciously using weight. In the past, I went too fast and too hard. I'm starting slow with plenty of room to progress, a key to successful training. For example, I can vary hold size (3 levels), foot size (3 levels), and weight (infinite levels) for each grip type on Systemboard ladders.

#5 - After the last two days outside, skin is a limiting factor.

#6 -I had difficulties on a large move between medium sized holds on a problem outside.

#7 - PRs are still coming. My training guideline is: Set a new PR, Drop down to 90% to solidify it, and Go home.

#8 - Not much in the tank for conditioning.