I spend way too much time in climbing gyms. When I compare what I do in the gym to other people, I'm a freaking space alien. I thought most of what I do is just common sense, coming from a competitive sports background. There are training days and "game" days. Gym days are training days. I'm there to get better, everything else is a bonus.
Here is a short list of stuff I've seen in the last week :
Attitude
If you are cracking jokes and texting people, you are not sending at your limit. I understand one of the biggest appeals of climbing is the social scene. Try focusing for a little while. You might just learn more and maybe enjoy the process. Don't expect Olympic level performance, if you're acting like its recess.
Crimping Pockets
There aren't a lot of pockets in most gyms* but when they are present, people climb them stupid. I know you can crimp some pockets. DON'T!!! Use a little resistant. You'll screw yourself up. Everyone does stupid stuff (including me). Just limit the amount of your stupid stuff. Either get stronger so you can climb on them right or leave them alone. It is just some stupid problem set in a gym. You don't have to send it.
Side note - If you feet cut on every move, leave pockets alone. I would also avoid crimps.
Projecting Every Day
Yesterday, you were falling off that problem for a couple of hours. You didn't get stronger overnight, especially when your recovery involved pizza and a pitcher of beer. You're probably going to fall on it today. Again - It is just some stupid problem set in a gym. You don't have to send it. There are 50 other problems. Even if by some miracle you send it, is it making you a better climber?
Warm-up
I warm-up everyday (If it is important, do it every day). I know Mr. V-double-digits doesn't warm-up. Warm-up doesn't mean doing random stretching (Only in the ways are you're already flexible). It doesn't mean jogging. Just climb a couple of things. Rest a bit and climb a couple more harder things. Check in with your body. You might be shocked in what you find.
What happens if you changed your mindset, got critical, trained hard, and came back in 6 months. Maybe you could flash at the same level you used to project. That's what I did. Instead of bashing yourself into a brick wall, take a step back and jump over it.
* I find this odd because there are pockets outside. Most outside pockets are sharper and tweakier than gym pockets. I rather learn how my body reacts in a controlled environment. However, every gym has fat pinches. I don't find fat pinches outside.
