Hedonic Adaptation

Training: 1) 80% Bouldering

2) Hangboard

Ankle mobility is a prerequisite for quality climbing movement.

Check out Mobility WOD (Climbing Lab Approved)

Note: I did not want to train today. It was a "Everything Sucks Today" day. I worked all day and went to the Big Game Area right after (it is the last day of the season). I started working on some lesser projects. It was hot and muggy. I fell out of awkward heelhook, missed the pad, and bruised my foot. As I was exploring, I fell in the river. I throw in the towel (which I didn't have), went home and put on some Dr. Dre. Once I started to train, everything was put right.

#1 I made up new medium hard problems. I wasn't in the proper mental state to compare myself to my own previous performance. #2 I didn't want to push my old records so I created new records in a different time domain, 15-20s. Still sticking the basics and stuff I suck at, i.e. Open and 1/2 Crimp positions.

Continuing the 21st guidebook experiment ...

There was "informed freestyling" at the top.

Merit-based Discrimination

Training: 1) 80% bouldering, 2 blocks

2) Hangboard

Notes: Back in CO. I had a rad session yesterday at the "Big Game" Area, cleaned up and sent 4 projects. The videos are all cut (can't post them because I'm over my VIMEO limit).

#1 - This workout was inspire by a Dan John comment about working your personal 80% level up. Some people pound themselves into the ground working 1 RM/ limit level sends. If you gently nudge up a lower (but still significant) work capacity, you can make more progress with less chance of injury. I translated that to climbing problems that I can send in 2 or 3 tries. I'll report back if it works. It is similar to ideas in Wendler's 5/3/1. #2 - Still milking linear progress on hangboard. Keeping grip, hold, and time constant, but adding 2.5lbs per workout. Adding 1lb per workout from now on.

Lake Tahoe, CA Video Ticklist

Quick Sends

(with a bit of Sloppy Footwork)

Suspiciously Straight Lines

Training: 1) Technique

2) Campus
Ladder, Medium Rungs, 1-5-8*
Ladder, Small Rungs, 1-4-7X4

3) Flash Ladder

4) Press, 3x5, 115

5) 3 rounds
1-arm pull-up, each arm
10s plank, 1-arm (ring), 1-foot

6) Prehab & Hanging leg raises

* Nonregulation spacing

Notes: Back from a short, fun trip to Lake Tahoe. Still early in the season, i.e. climb in the morning, hangout at the lake, and climb in the evening. There is a general lack of quality problems (in the guidebook) harder than V8. The granite did a number on my skin. Need to build it up for the season. Video ticklist in production.

Listening to the feedback from the last trip. Moved well. Strong enough to give rapid fire tries, which helped to figure out sequences and send. A major, but often forgotten, benefit of strength. No major tweaking in my program. Just increase training volume so I can climb more problems outside.

Went to a "seminal" climbing gym in the US. It was not great. 75% of the holds are pinches. 100% of the holds on problems harder than V7 are pinches. I suck on pinches and don't see a reason to get better. #1 Focused on relaxing and quality movement #2 I was "forced" to campus. The gym has a nonregulation spacing. VERY LAME! It was fun and hard but meaningless. #3 Not only am I weak on pinches, I have very little capacity on them. Most problem went like this: Preview, Setup, Flash most of it, Hard Pinch Move, Fall. #4-6 The conventional gym part really sucks. Too much equipment wedged into a cave. The squat rack faced a mirror which completely throws off my squats. I settled for pressing. My numbers are way off my PRs but it doesn't matter since it is just cross training.

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1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Flash Ladder

3) Snatch, Work up to heavy single (155lbs) then 3 singles @ 90%

4) 1 arm press, KB, 50lbs 3x5

5) Core and 1-arm pull-ups

Notes: Training at a pretty good facility. Plenty of hard problems (no hard routes). The routesetting is good and varied. However, some of the feet are high for my body size. #1 Typically Threshold Bouldering focuses on limit-level moves. I did a slight variation, I focused on moves I suck at. These moves were on problems 2 grades easier than my flash level for today. It was "fun" to be humbled. #2 I wanted to get some stamina work and toughen my skin. Lately, I have been doing after work sessions and that doesn't cut it for an up coming road trip. I started at one grade easier than my flash level for today. Started to shred after a little while. Then dropped a grade. Repeat till lack of skin. #3 Oly lifting is fun. I have lost the capacity to train clean & jerk in the same session. #4 I was inspired by this article about core training. This was my first access to the proper equipment.

Here is my rank ordered list of core training for climbers:

1. Power Touches

2. Planks

3. Front Levers

4. L-sit Scissors

5. Ab wheel roll-outs

6. Basic Barbell Exercises

7. 90 degree sit-ups

8. Everything else

Saturday Syke Video

Still Looking For The Mike V of Climbing ...