2) Campus
Ladder, Medium Rungs, 1-5-8*
Ladder, Small Rungs, 1-4-7X4
3) Flash Ladder
4) Press, 3x5, 115
5) 3 rounds
1-arm pull-up, each arm
10s plank, 1-arm (ring), 1-foot
6) Prehab & Hanging leg raises
* Nonregulation spacing
Listening to the feedback from the last trip. Moved well. Strong enough to give rapid fire tries, which helped to figure out sequences and send. A major, but often forgotten, benefit of strength. No major tweaking in my program. Just increase training volume so I can climb more problems outside.
Went to a "seminal" climbing gym in the US. It was not great. 75% of the holds are pinches. 100% of the holds on problems harder than V7 are pinches. I suck on pinches and don't see a reason to get better. #1 Focused on relaxing and quality movement #2 I was "forced" to campus. The gym has a nonregulation spacing. VERY LAME! It was fun and hard but meaningless. #3 Not only am I weak on pinches, I have very little capacity on them. Most problem went like this: Preview, Setup, Flash most of it, Hard Pinch Move, Fall. #4-6 The conventional gym part really sucks. Too much equipment wedged into a cave. The squat rack faced a mirror which completely throws off my squats. I settled for pressing. My numbers are way off my PRs but it doesn't matter since it is just cross training.
