Notes: Back in CO. I had a rad session yesterday at the "Big Game" Area, cleaned up and sent 4 projects. The videos are all cut (can't post them because I'm over my VIMEO limit).
#1 - This workout was inspire by a Dan John comment about working your personal 80% level up. Some people pound themselves into the ground working 1 RM/ limit level sends. If you gently nudge up a lower (but still significant) work capacity, you can make more progress with less chance of injury. I translated that to climbing problems that I can send in 2 or 3 tries. I'll report back if it works. It is similar to ideas in Wendler's 5/3/1. #2 - Still milking linear progress on hangboard. Keeping grip, hold, and time constant, but adding 2.5lbs per workout. Adding 1lb per workout from now on.