Aug 14, 2010

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1) Threshold Bouldering

2) Flash Ladder

3) Snatch, Work up to heavy single (155lbs) then 3 singles @ 90%

4) 1 arm press, KB, 50lbs 3x5

5) Core and 1-arm pull-ups

Notes: Training at a pretty good facility. Plenty of hard problems (no hard routes). The routesetting is good and varied. However, some of the feet are high for my body size. #1 Typically Threshold Bouldering focuses on limit-level moves. I did a slight variation, I focused on moves I suck at. These moves were on problems 2 grades easier than my flash level for today. It was "fun" to be humbled. #2 I wanted to get some stamina work and toughen my skin. Lately, I have been doing after work sessions and that doesn't cut it for an up coming road trip. I started at one grade easier than my flash level for today. Started to shred after a little while. Then dropped a grade. Repeat till lack of skin. #3 Oly lifting is fun. I have lost the capacity to train clean & jerk in the same session. #4 I was inspired by this article about core training. This was my first access to the proper equipment.

Here is my rank ordered list of core training for climbers:

1. Power Touches

2. Planks

3. Front Levers

4. L-sit Scissors

5. Ab wheel roll-outs

6. Basic Barbell Exercises

7. 90 degree sit-ups

8. Everything else