Photo courtesy of Mountain ProjectI'm no longer injured and through the recovery process I have built up a good aerobic base in my forearms. I'm ready to start a new training cycle. The goal of the training cycle is a 4 day trip to Mount Charleston over Memorial Day weekend. I have never been there so I will focus on onsighting as many routes as possible. Mount Charleston is limestone, which means steep, big moves, slick feet, and pockets.
My general training principles:
- 4 climbing days per week (2 performance days & 2 training days) and 3 rest days
- Strength/Power is King
- Power Endurance is Queen.
- Minimal cross-training.
With those principles in mind, I here is my training schedule:
Week 1
M - Power Endurance at Mountain Athlete
T - Rest/Cross-training
W - Power Endurance at Mountain Athlete
Th - Endurance/Technique
F - Rest
Sa - Performance
Su - Power Endurance
Week 2
M - Rest
T - Performance/Power
W - Power Endurance
Th - Rest
F - Rest
Sa - Performance
Su - Rest
Week 3
M - Power Endurance at Mountain Athlete
T - Rest
W - Performance/Power
Th - Power Endurance
F - Rest
Sa - Performance
Su - Power Endurance
Week 4
M - Rest
T - Power Endurance
W - Endurance
Th - Rest
F - Rest
Sa - Start of Mount Charleston trip
The performance days will be outside, weather permitting. If I have partners, they will be sport climbing days. If I can't find partners, they will be bouldering in new areas to keep my onsight skills sharp. The power days will either be outside, working bouldering projects, or inside, campusing or threshold bouldering. The power endurance will be inside, e.g. intervals on the systems board, 4X4, or 6X8.
