Apr 1, 2009

Yosemite: Keeping People Climbing 5.9 Since 1972

Objective: Climbing Technique/Performance

Problems Sent:
Initial Fiction, V1, 3rd go (overcame huge mental barrier, fell making the last move on 2nd go)
The Sloth Left, V2, flash
I’m Pumped, V3, flash (no I wasn’t)
The Sloth, V3, flash
Ament Arete, V4, flash (from the stand, no clue how to do the sit)
Tendons Give, V4, 2nd go (traversed too far on flash because the guidebook was unclear)
Unnamed (bridwell boulder), V4, 3rd go (would have flashed if I wasn’t mislead by the guide book)
All problems on Unnamed boulder near B-1 boulder
VB, V3, V0, V0+, V5, all flashed

Problems Tried:
Sentinel Traverse, v6, 2 tries (fell on last hard move both times, move #14 : hand/foot match)
Unnamed (sentinel boulder), V5, 1 try (freak out and got pumped)
Spanish Fly, v4, 3 tries (no holds & no chalk on top out)

Enjoying perfect rock and perfect movement

Yosemite 5.10a, hard and scary


One of my hobbies is strongman training, aka picking up heavy awkward stuff. I convinced my girlfriend to dabble in it.

Notes: Spent 3 days in The Ditch, aka Yosemite Valley, with my girlfriend. No crowds, perfect weather. The long climbs were wet so we just cragged and bouldered. Epic free.

The main mission was getting her to start leading trad. She got up a bunch of things, including a 5.9, Grant's Crack. It is nice dating a climber. She understands the obsession and when I come home bruised and sored. However, she belongs to a different tribe, the traditional tribe. I self-allied with the bouldering/sport tribe. Yosemite is a wonderful watering hole were different tribes can come together.

The second objective was for me to overcome my mental barriers against the valley and slab climbing. In the past, I have been shut down on fiction climbing. I have big muscles and like to use them. I swallowed a bit of my pride and pawed up some fiction. There was a shocking amount of trutching.

The ticklist is not complete but selected highlights.