I have reached the next level in my climbing. How do I know? I sent one of my projects. How did I do it? Smart, Hard, and Consistent Work.
- I didn't run a 5k or dead-lift an arbitrary number.
- However, I did set a very similar problem on my home wall. Training on my project was prohibitive.
- I identified physical, my ability to hold slopers, and mental, fear of failure, limiters. I treated them appropriately.
- I waited for the temperatures to drop, both by picking the right day and waiting for the sun to dip behind the horizon, to maximize my opportunity.
- I subtly and systematically changed the difficulty of the simulated problem on my home wall.
- I added weight every hangboard session in the Open hand position.
- I did the simulated move at least 2x week. Even if I wasn't feeling strong, I got after it.
- Every time I hit the hangboard (at least 1x week), I trained open hand.
I'm not sure if I'm the first to do this move or this problem. It is not terribly important. I had to a far amount of cleaning, including some loose rock. It is off the beaten track, but there is a history of climbing in the area. The problem might have been overlooked because of its stature, short but not dabby.
I'm not sure what grade this move or problem deserve. It is impossible for me to grade because I have insufficient context. I know it is my hardest send to date. What does that mean? In the past year, I have sent 1 V9(ish) in less than hour, sent 4 V8s in less hour, and flashed 1 V8. The crux of this problem took ~30 tries over 2 days. The 2 days were 1 month apart. I did the simulated move about 45+ times during that 1 month gap. Additionally, I did the move in my mind 100+ times. I can safely say it is harder than V9. How much harder? Honestly, I don't know. It is not terribly important.
I do know I'm taking this new level into my other projects and my life.
(Update - I onsighted my first 12a sport route 2 days later.)