Sep 13, 2010

Prudent Paranoia

Training: 1) Technique

2) Hangboard

rest 5 hours

3) Screw Around in Climbing Gym

4) Front Squat, DE, 175lbs

5) Press, 3X5, 115

6) Core & Prehab

Notes: 3rd day on. The other two days were putting up first ascents, fun but not high volume. I'm a believer that massive amounts of quality climbing is the fastest path to Crankdom. So today was a volume day. #1 Trying something new - thumbless climbing. Inspired by the video. No crimping or pinching. It fixes two problems 1. My strong loathing of pinchcentric indoor climbing. 2. My addiction to crimping. Thumbless climbing also forces straighter arm climbing (free money). All around a great tool in the workout toolbox #2 I trained in the 15-20s range. Matching my previous baseline. #3 Went to a commercial gym. Horrible setting and crowded. The best I could manage was a hybrid of density training and short intervals. Chasing two rabbits and didn't catch either one. #4-5 Maintenance work. Lowered the volume on the squats. Last time my squat recovery cut into my subsequent outdoor session. If your cross-training cuts into your sport or life, it time to reevaluate your program (or lack of one). #6 Rotator cuff is healthier. Elbows are little funky.