Sep 20, 2010

Strong is the New Skinny

1) Bouldering

2) Hangboard

Notes: I'm too busy right now to climb as much as I like, ideally 4 times a week. I'm getting ahead in work now so I have more free time when the temperatures are better. Keeping the goal the goal. However, I snuck out to Shelf Road for the first time. It is rad, chossy American limestone. I onsighted 6 routes in a 1/2 day (9, 10a, 10a/b, 10c/d, 11b, 11b). It was fun to have a Zero-Fall Day. The best excuses that I could come up for the low numbers with are: It is still the preseason, aka freaking hot, I haven't been clipping bolts, and it is 1/4 of full moon. If I'm going to be a better sport climber, I need get better excuses. #1 Falling in love with my woody (Don't Judge). Here is my "challenge" list. I list the holds, which have names, in order to make a challenge. No tape! The main problems are rank ordered by row. The columns represent different styles. Open - any feet. Thumbless- can't use my thumbs but still open feet. Static - use my thumbs and any foot holds, but no feet cutting. Foot Chip - wooden dowels only for feet. FC/TL/S - Foot chip, Thumbless, Static, aka Crankenfrank style. There is built-in progression, both vertically (harder problems) and horizontally (harder style). #2 Just Open Hand. Hit new benchmarks!! I spent the rest time wrapping my PVC pipe in athlete tape. I upgraded to PVC the last year (Thanks to Dan John advice), but now it is "better" thanks to Wenlder. KANI.