Jan 10, 2011

Mechanical Turk

Training: 1) Technique

2) Repeats

Dan John on Athletic Qualities
I chuckle inside everytime I hear about how good climbing is for upper body development. I laugh outloud everytime I see a climber do a pull-up. If you can do 3 pull-ups, you've paid the strength entrance fee for 5.12.
Time to work on technique.

#1 Continuous climbing. Trading an explicit monkey brain for an implicit monkey mind #2 Over-speeded climbing. Building on #1. Sloppy but makes normal climb feel like Matrix time. 1 minute rests between problems. Everything was going well until I rushed a jump move. I spun and hurt my weak knee. Stupid indoor jump moves. I need to train for my game, not the routesetter's game. A little vitamin I, ice, and zombie western comedy will fix me up.