Problems Sent : Sometimes Wet, V2, flash Phil's Folly, V3, flash The Buddha, V4, flash Unknown, V4, 2nd go (loose rock fell in my mouth on the flash) Ned's Corner, V5, flash Berthoud, V5, 2nd go Phillip's Problem, V5, redpoint (1st go with better sequence)
Total Points : 28
Problems Tried : After Berthoud, V6, did all the moves but wanted more pads to send
A tree growing out of sandstone conglomerate in the river.
Delicious two-finger pocket
Slippery, slopey embedded rock jug
Notes : I was forced to go to Denver for work. I tried to make the best of the situation by climbing at Castlewood Canyon. I spent most of my time lost (Thanks Bob Horan!!). I was able to find two caves, Buddha Belly and Berthoud. It was fun, steep, thug climbing on sandstone conglomerate. I'm no stranger to that type of climbing and rock. While sandstone conglomerate lends itself to a vast variety of shapes, it is inherently unstable. Poison ivy and ticks were no extra charge. The only things missing from the complete central coast of California experience were monos and rattlesnakes.
It was still too cold and windy to climb in the days after the comp. My girlfriend and I decided to check out Rock Mountain National Park. It was my first trip, and I was simply blown away. Perfect steep boulders everywhere with superb rock quality.
A lifetime of rock
Once the snow melts it's ON!
Bonus :
My new Bolt Gun It ain't no Hilti, but it'll work.
Problems Sent : Advanced Problem #4 (flash), #5 (flash), #6 (2nd go), #7 (flash), #9 (4 tries), Open Problem #2 (flash)
Place : Unknown (but I guess top 3 in Advanced)
Problems Tried : Advanced Problem #8 (1 try, not my style), #10 (3 tries, not my style)
Here is my girlfriend's highlight reel:
She is entering Advanced Category next time.
Here is my highlight reel :
The first 2 problems were very lowball (the crux was not dabbing). I was the first competitor to use the "natural" hold on the third problem (which started the send train). The fourth problem was completely my style (combination of two-finger pockets and crimps). The flash felt easy.
Advanced Problem #9 in the Cave of Doom
Many people kept falling on the move pictured above. I knew there was a "trick." It took me 3 tries to figure out the kneebar beta. It transformed the crux move into just another move. I still punted on the finishing jugs. I realized the problem was in the bag. I did a bunch of other problems and waited to send it at the buzzer.
Notes : It was too windy to climb outside so my girlfriend and I opted for an indoor comp. I climbed much better in this comp. You get better at the things you do (Crazy idea). I was much more relaxed. It could have been the familiar holds, terrain, setters, or hanging out with my girl. Despite the lowball nature of the some of the problems, the comp was great. It was very professional for a local comp. The setters stepped-up their game. There was also free pizza, free beer, and a DJ!!
There are many different types of climbers. For example, Ninjas can send V12 or 14a, Monkeys climb a lot but don't like to fall, and Samurais free solo hard, long climbs. I'm definitely a Wizard. Wizards find the secret beta for problems. I was first climber to find the "natural" hold on Advanced Problem #7 and the kneebar on Advanced Problem #10. I kinda like hard cranking, but I get more out of the game of climbing. I really enjoy figuring problems out. That is why I focus on developing new climbs or flashing/onsighting established climbs.
I have some mental roadblocks between me and hard cranking. I focus on my weaknesses during training, but I'm not giving myself enough credit for improving. Advanced Problem #10 required jumps between large slopers. I didn't think I could flash it (self-defeating thought) so I avoided it until the end. It wasn't that hard and trying it didn't take that much energy from me. I ran out of time before I could send it (They cut the competition 15 minutes short. LAME!!). A similar thing happened on Advanced Problem #9 in the steep cave, my other nemesis. I figured out the Wizard kneebar beta but punted on the finishing jugs. I did send, thanks to a little angry onion.
Training : (1) Big Rung, Ladders, 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 1-3-5-7-8 1-4
(2) Medium Rung, Ladders 1-5 1-6 1-7 (fail)
(3) Small Rung, Ladders 1-4 1-5 (PR!!)
(4) Big Rung, Two fingers, Ladders 1-2-3 (PR!!)
(5) 4 rounds 30s, campus, big rungs, 1-2 60s rest
Campus Session, 2/25/09
Notes : The gym was resetting for a comp so I was forced to campus. I decided to go big today. I got two personal records. The first PR was 1-5 on the small rungs. It was a little while coming. I'm extra proud because it was open hand. I usually crimp the small rungs but decided that it wasn't a good idea because I'm still getting over my finger injury. The second PR was two finger, 1-2-3 ladder on the big rungs. Next time, two finger campusing on the medium rungs. I'm thinking about mono campusing. I didn't post video of the power endurance campusing because it would suck more watching it than doing it. That says a lot.
Bonus : There is a rumor of changing the campus board rung spacing to the standard. I'm trying not to get too excited.
Objective : Performance (but quickly became screwing around)
Problems Sent : 0
Problems Tried : Punk Rock Traverse, V5(?), 2 tries Mammen Traverse, V9(?), a bunch of tries
My second try on Punk Rock Traverse. I think I used a bunch of holds that aren't "on". Who cares? I don't.
The start of Mammen Traverse. I fall at the crux. That holds are small, I'm off-balance, and the move is big. FUN!
After the crux to the end of Mammen Traverse
Notes : Went back to Horsetooth Reservoir. I decided to check out/wam-up on Punk Rock Traverse. It is very contrived. In turn, my motivation dropped to zero. I almost flashed it but didn't know what holds were on/off. I went over to a better, harder, but still contrived traverse, Mammen Traverse. I like this climb and am developing a relationship with it. Most climbs are 1 nighters for me : Find 'em, Send 'em, and Forget 'em. I'm only begining to appreciate this climb, the subtleties of its holds and the beauty of its curves.
I have nothing against the rocks. They are gorgeous and 5 minutes from house. I have something against the "problems." There is a another problem called Powerglide, which is an elimante of an elimante! WTF! I went to the gym after, at least there I know which holds are on.
Bonus : I saw the movie Pure on Friday night. RAD. I upgraded to iLife 09. RAD.
Notes : I did this workout because I felt like moving my body. I also wanted to see how much strength I have lost since switching my focus to climbing. It turns out not much. Mountain Athlete is finding a similar result. Interesting.
At some point, my Olympic Weightlifting class will start to clean and jerk. I love cleaning (I could live without jerking. Scary!). There is no messing around with a clean. You have to commit. My current PR for the clean is 205. I have the potential for a big PR. Hopefully, I can actualize my potential.
The circuit, #3, was a smoker. I couldn't see for the first 30s after and couldn't talk for 5 minutes. If I threw in 50 handstand push-ups, my power output would have precipitously dropped. Think about it.
Routes Sent : Cheerleaders Gone Hippie, 9+, Onsight (Nice to be in the sun, "fun" offwidth crux) Crossbow, 10b, Flash (misread the guidebook, thought it was an 11a) Check Your Six, 11b, 2nd go (flashed through crux then had a mental breakdown, sucked it up and sent) Armor Plated, 11a, Flash (avoided the contrived dyno) Monstrosity, 10c/d, 2nd go (1st try today, hard fucker, nearly fell 3 times!!!)
Total Points : 21.5
Number of Kneebars : 5 (Maybe a 1 point penalty for each kneebar?)
Notes : A little warmer at The Palace, Spring is in the air. Also, it helped to put handwarmers in my chalkbag! My general performance plan for this area : warm up by flashing 2-3 routes, get on an easy project 2-3 goes, and finish the day by cleaning up old easy projects. I got on 7 climbs, and it was only a 3/4 day. I can't wait for full days!!
I have been strugglin' with a small finger injury. My right ring finger hurt after cranking on the small crimps of Rapid Fire. I was dumb and didn't take the appropriate rest (Actually, I climbed the next day in the gym with a weight vest!!). Lately, I have been doing the right things, i.e. not crimp, soaking it in cold water, lower the intensity, and increase the volume. It is healing nicely.
However during my flash attempt on Check Your Six, it was a problem. In order to make the clip on the third bolt (after the crux), you have lock-off a medium-sized right hand crimp. If you blow the clip, you will deck. It was mentally too much for me. I had a vision of the tendon in my finger snapping and me hitting ground. I made the clip, took, and lowered to the ground. I was able to gather myself and send the route 2nd try.
My finger wasn't the real issue. The real issue is my fear of missing clips and decking. About 4 years ago, I missed clipping the 4th bolt of climb and hit the deck. The climb was so steep I fell flat on my back! I was unhurt, other than getting the wind knocked out of me. (I would like to thank weight training for making me impact resistant.) I think my belayer was partly responsible for me hitting the ground. It was my first time climbing with him. I thought he was safe since he was the head instructor of the local university's climbing program. It says something about the quality of my previous university's climbing program. I still have residual fear of missing clips. It definitely holds me back, especially during onsights. I'm working on changing my mindset and only climb with people I trust.
The remainder of the day was very pleasant. I got on Small Fry, and it was warm enough to actually feel the holds! It is a hard climb to flash because the crux is very technical. It should go quickly. I got revenge on Monstrosity. That climb is full value. However, the value is low because it is overpolished blocky choss.
Bonus :
A great method for treating finger injuries
I did this exactly, and it worked. I was able to climb through my injury. RAD.
A tree growing out of sandstone conglomerate in the river.
Delicious two-finger pocket
Slippery, slopey embedded rock jug
