Hard Plastic

Objective : Performance

Problems Sent : Advanced Problem #4 (flash), #5 (flash), #6 (2nd go), #7 (flash), #9 (4 tries), Open Problem #2 (flash)

Place : Unknown (but I guess top 3 in Advanced)

Problems Tried : Advanced Problem #8 (1 try, not my style), #10 (3 tries, not my style)

Here is my girlfriend's highlight reel:

She is entering Advanced Category next time.

Here is my highlight reel :

The first 2 problems were very lowball (the crux was not dabbing). I was the first competitor to use the "natural" hold on the third problem (which started the send train). The fourth problem was completely my style (combination of two-finger pockets and crimps). The flash felt easy.

Advanced Problem #9 in the Cave of Doom

Many people kept falling on the move pictured above. I knew there was a "trick." It took me 3 tries to figure out the kneebar beta. It transformed the crux move into just another move. I still punted on the finishing jugs. I realized the problem was in the bag. I did a bunch of other problems and waited to send it at the buzzer.

Notes : It was too windy to climb outside so my girlfriend and I opted for an indoor comp. I climbed much better in this comp. You get better at the things you do (Crazy idea). I was much more relaxed. It could have been the familiar holds, terrain, setters, or hanging out with my girl. Despite the lowball nature of the some of the problems, the comp was great. It was very professional for a local comp. The setters stepped-up their game. There was also free pizza, free beer, and a DJ!!

There are many different types of climbers. For example, Ninjas can send V12 or 14a, Monkeys climb a lot but don't like to fall, and Samurais free solo hard, long climbs. I'm definitely a Wizard. Wizards find the secret beta for problems. I was first climber to find the "natural" hold on Advanced Problem #7 and the kneebar on Advanced Problem #10. I kinda like hard cranking, but I get more out of the game of climbing. I really enjoy figuring problems out. That is why I focus on developing new climbs or flashing/onsighting established climbs.

I have some mental roadblocks between me and hard cranking. I focus on my weaknesses during training, but I'm not giving myself enough credit for improving. Advanced Problem #10 required jumps between large slopers. I didn't think I could flash it (self-defeating thought) so I avoided it until the end. It wasn't that hard and trying it didn't take that much energy from me. I ran out of time before I could send it (They cut the competition 15 minutes short. LAME!!). A similar thing happened on Advanced Problem #9 in the steep cave, my other nemesis. I figured out the Wizard kneebar beta but punted on the finishing jugs. I did send, thanks to a little angry onion.