Routes Sent : Cheerleaders Gone Hippie, 9+, Onsight (Nice to be in the sun, "fun" offwidth crux)
Crossbow, 10b, Flash (misread the guidebook, thought it was an 11a)
Check Your Six, 11b, 2nd go (flashed through crux then had a mental breakdown, sucked it up and sent)
Armor Plated, 11a, Flash (avoided the contrived dyno)
Monstrosity, 10c/d, 2nd go (1st try today, hard fucker, nearly fell 3 times!!!)
Total Points : 21.5
Number of Kneebars : 5 (Maybe a 1 point penalty for each kneebar?)
Routes Tried : Small Fry, 12b, 2 tries, (BTB, 1 hang)
Notes : A little warmer at The Palace, Spring is in the air. Also, it helped to put handwarmers in my chalkbag! My general performance plan for this area : warm up by flashing 2-3 routes, get on an easy project 2-3 goes, and finish the day by cleaning up old easy projects. I got on 7 climbs, and it was only a 3/4 day. I can't wait for full days!!
I have been strugglin' with a small finger injury. My right ring finger hurt after cranking on the small crimps of Rapid Fire. I was dumb and didn't take the appropriate rest (Actually, I climbed the next day in the gym with a weight vest!!). Lately, I have been doing the right things, i.e. not crimp, soaking it in cold water, lower the intensity, and increase the volume. It is healing nicely.
However during my flash attempt on Check Your Six, it was a problem. In order to make the clip on the third bolt (after the crux), you have lock-off a medium-sized right hand crimp. If you blow the clip, you will deck. It was mentally too much for me. I had a vision of the tendon in my finger snapping and me hitting ground. I made the clip, took, and lowered to the ground. I was able to gather myself and send the route 2nd try.
My finger wasn't the real issue. The real issue is my fear of missing clips and decking. About 4 years ago, I missed clipping the 4th bolt of climb and hit the deck. The climb was so steep I fell flat on my back! I was unhurt, other than getting the wind knocked out of me. (I would like to thank weight training for making me impact resistant.) I think my belayer was partly responsible for me hitting the ground. It was my first time climbing with him. I thought he was safe since he was the head instructor of the local university's climbing program. It says something about the quality of my previous university's climbing program. I still have residual fear of missing clips. It definitely holds me back, especially during onsights. I'm working on changing my mindset and only climb with people I trust.
The remainder of the day was very pleasant. I got on Small Fry, and it was warm enough to actually feel the holds! It is a hard climb to flash because the crux is very technical. It should go quickly. I got revenge on Monstrosity. That climb is full value. However, the value is low because it is overpolished blocky choss.
Bonus :
A great method for treating finger injuries
I did this exactly, and it worked. I was able to climb through my injury. RAD.
