Dec 17, 2008

Itsy Bitsy Spider

Objective: Climbing Strength

Warm up : up and down climb jugs for 5 minutes

Training:

(1) 6X6 (6 sets X 6 moves/reps) up climb pinch, down climb jugs, 20lb vest
rest 30s between sets

(2) 6X4 two finger pocket, up and down, 20lb vest
rest 30s between sets

(3) 6X4 open hand, up and down, 20lb vest
rest 30s between sets

Simple and Hard

Notes: It is raining so it time for some serious gym work. This work out focuses on my weaknesses: pinch and open hand strength, down climbing.

Objective: Climbing Stamina

Training: Up and down continuously for 40 minutes

Notes: I did this workout at a local climbing gym using the autobelays. To train Climbing Stamina in the past, I have up climbed something hard, 5.10a/b, and down climbed something easier, 5.7/5.8. Dan Corn suggests I up and down climbing the same level. During this session, all I could manage was 5.9. It was harder consistently downclimbing 5.9 but overall, it felt easier than previous Climbing Stamina workouts. It included onsighting a new route, per routesetter request. I skipped about 1/2 the holds and several contrived sequences. He did not look psyched!


Objective: Strength

Warm up: Barbell complex, 65, 85, 95, 105

Training:

(1) 1 RM, Front Squat, 245

(2) 3 Front Squat, 195
10 pull ups
5 Rounds

(3) 10 Corkscrews, 35
10 burpees
10 weighted sit ups, 35
10 burpees
3 Rounds

(4) 30/30 row
5 Rounds

Heavy but doable

Notes: I hit it hard because this is the last gym session for 2-4 weeks. I need to improve on my "Working Strength", #2, relative to Maximal Strength, #1. My friend Brandon joined me for the workout, his first Mountain Athlete style sufferfest. He is now mental tougher.