Warm up : up and down climb jugs for 5 minutes
Training:
(1) 6X6 (6 sets X 6 moves/reps) up climb pinch, down climb jugs, 20lb vest
rest 30s between sets
(2) 6X4 two finger pocket, up and down, 20lb vest
rest 30s between sets
(3) 6X4 open hand, up and down, 20lb vest
rest 30s between sets
Simple and Hard
Notes: It is raining so it time for some serious gym work. This work out focuses on my weaknesses: pinch and open hand strength, down climbing.
Objective: Climbing Stamina
Training: Up and down continuously for 40 minutes
Notes: I did this workout at a local climbing gym using the autobelays. To train Climbing Stamina in the past, I have up climbed something hard, 5.10a/b, and down climbed something easier, 5.7/5.8. Dan Corn suggests I up and down climbing the same level. During this session, all I could manage was 5.9. It was harder consistently downclimbing 5.9 but overall, it felt easier than previous Climbing Stamina workouts. It included onsighting a new route, per routesetter request. I skipped about 1/2 the holds and several contrived sequences. He did not look psyched!
Objective: Strength
Warm up: Barbell complex, 65, 85, 95, 105
Training:
(1) 1 RM, Front Squat, 245
(2) 3 Front Squat, 195
10 pull ups
5 Rounds
(3) 10 Corkscrews, 35
10 burpees
10 weighted sit ups, 35
10 burpees
3 Rounds
(4) 30/30 row
5 Rounds
Objective: Climbing Stamina
Training: Up and down continuously for 40 minutes
Notes: I did this workout at a local climbing gym using the autobelays. To train Climbing Stamina in the past, I have up climbed something hard, 5.10a/b, and down climbed something easier, 5.7/5.8. Dan Corn suggests I up and down climbing the same level. During this session, all I could manage was 5.9. It was harder consistently downclimbing 5.9 but overall, it felt easier than previous Climbing Stamina workouts. It included onsighting a new route, per routesetter request. I skipped about 1/2 the holds and several contrived sequences. He did not look psyched!
Objective: Strength
Warm up: Barbell complex, 65, 85, 95, 105
Training:
(1) 1 RM, Front Squat, 245
(2) 3 Front Squat, 195
10 pull ups
5 Rounds
(3) 10 Corkscrews, 35
10 burpees
10 weighted sit ups, 35
10 burpees
3 Rounds
(4) 30/30 row
5 Rounds