Dec 18, 2008

Strong Like Bull

Objective : Technique

Training : Up and down climb as many routes as possible in 2 hours


Leading a 5.10 and attempting to down climb it.


Up and down climbing the hardest route on the slab wall.
Weight Vest next time!

Notes: Thanks Mountain Athlete! Despite only a few sessions on their program, I feel the strongest I have even been. Every hold I grabbed today I felt like I "owned" it. I am almost afraid of my new strength. 3/4 of the way through the session I decided to try one of the hardest routes in gym. Before, I was able to redpoint it 50% of the time and never that late in a session. I was able to crush it today. Crazy.

There is old adage: "The best program is the one you are not on. " Switching to the Mountain Athlete program is the best thing I have done for my climbing in a long time. I'm not sure what the exact cause because many variables were changed. My best guess is switching ab training from purely resisting movement, L-sits & front levers, to initiating movement, weighted situps & weighted twists. Increaseing my functional ab strength enables me to better apply my already present strength. Another guess is pure climbing power endurance work. In the past, I have trained power endurance by doing laps on routes. I fail because of a combination of technique and getting pumped. Mountain Athlete suggests using hangboards to train power endurance because you only fail from the pump. No place to hide!! I take a black box approach to fitness, i.e. look only at inputs and outputs. In this case, the new input, Mountain Athlete training, has an unbelievable output, a rapid increase in climbing strength.