May 28, 2009

The Bachelor Claw

Objective: Climbing Stamina

Training: (1) Boulder continuously for 1.5 hours, try for hard flashes with minimal rests

(2) 3 rounds
5s crimp, each hand
10s 1 arm/1 foot plank on rings, each side

Notes: I had some business in Boulder (the city) and used it as an opportunity to train at The Spot. I ran around and tried to cram as many hard problem as possible in the session.

Each gym has a different setting style. For example, Mission Cliffs in SF most routes are open handed, non-reachy, endurance fests. Almost all the boulder problems at The Spot have traverse moves. There are almost no straight up problems. The Spot setters are very good, but there is a limited number of fun traverse moves. It forces the problems to be repetitive or have lower quality movement. It appears they are compensating for a lack of rope climbing. There is a old adage that is apropos: Boulder for power, sport climb for endurance, trad climb for your head, and mountain climb for your soul.