May 23, 2009

Imaginator Wall - The Wall That Hates Me

Objective: Performance

Routes Sent:
Mary Weeks Arete, 6, onsight
Egyptian Sandfish, 10b, onsight (good route, high point of day)
Unknown, 11a, 2nd go (maybe Killer Driller, hard slab start to fun easy climbing)

Total Points: 9.5

Routes Tried:
The On Ramp, 10a, 1 try (a foot broke on my onsight attempt)
Imaginator, 11c, 1 try (17 bolts, 140’, super classic, a foot broke on my onsight attempt, UGH)
Old World Order, 11d, bailed (onsighted to crux, couldn’t do crux, even after using nylon jug beta)

Imaginator Wall in its glory.

Alex on the sharp end, on sharp rock.

Notes: Alex and I went first to Imaginator Wall, one of the lesser Mount Charleston walls. It has an unmatched aurora. Nestled in the mountains with snow at the base of a limestone wall stretching high into the subapline air. Unbelievably, we had the crag to ourselves.

The rock is not super chossy but feet kept breaking, ruining my onsight attempts. I wanted to call "technicals" and get my onsight try back. Redpointing the routes seemed anticlimactic. I like the technical off-vertical climbing, even though the crux was usually starting the routes. My ego wants to claim Old World Order was very broken. It was the hardest I have ever tried on a route. The sharpness of the rock did not effect my tips but did result in micro cuts on other parts of my hand. Considering the amount of time I spend in LV, I'll come back and clean up the loose ends.