May 31, 2009

LOTD, Necropolis Sector

Objective: New Routing

Left to Right
Voodoo Man, V1 - undercling to slopers
possible additional line
Beating Heart Cadaver, V0 - dihedral ramp
possible additional line

Right to Left
A Stick Up The Butt, V1 - sds on horn, lieback edge
Better Than A Stick Up The Butt, V3/4 - sds on sloper ledge, straight up via big moves
Nothing is Better Than a Stick Up the Butt, V2/3 - sds on sloper ledge, traverse left and up

Ressentiment, V1 - sds, climb the steep horn via jugs

Left to Right
I'm not into dead guys, V1 - lie back edge
Everyone’s dead, V1 - green lichen section
Your mom ate my dog, V2 - left of tree
They are coming to get you Barbara, V1 - roof

Are We Worth Saving?, V3 - middle of face, Gill start to good sized crimps

Notes: My life is surreal at this point. I woke up and set a 13 at the local gym (ironic because I haven't climbed harder than 12a). I went to my normal job until 5. After, I put up 11 new boulder problems outside.

I revisited the first sector I found when I started exploring the ridge. It is mostly moderates on good vertical rock. "Beating Heart Cadaver" is a perfect example of why I moved to CO. It is kinda high, and I did it ground up after it had rained that afternoon. That would have been suicidal on the Central Coast of CA's fragile sandstone.

After the session, I walked around and found even more rock. I have barely scratched the surface of this area.