May 14, 2009

In Defense of Gym Climbing

Objective: Climbing Technique, Climbing Power Endurance

Warm-up: (1) Easy Traversing, 10 minutes
(2) Mobility Drills

Training: (1) Practice handjams

(2) 4X4 (Adv, Adv, Adv-, Int)
rest 2:00 between sets

(3) Practice resting on the wall

Bryan B. running another lap on The General Lee, my project.
It starts out on in technical corner to slightly overhanging jams and open handed jugs.

Notes: I found a nice rhythm of climbing 2 days outside and finishing the 2nd day with conditioning in the climbing gym. I like the gym because I can have a highly focused practice. As oppose to climbing outdoors, where it is "take it as it comes".

The session is designed to prepare me for my project. There are some difficult handjams. I'm okay at crack climbing but could improve at trusting poor quality jams. 4X4 are always hard, but it was nice to be performing at approximately the same pre-injury level. I picked problems that were slightly overhanging with open hand holds. I flushed the interval by-products out of my system with some easy climbing while practicing difficult rests. I'm crafty at finding good rests, but my technique is lacking when it comes to recovering in difficult positions. That will be key to sending my project.