May 6, 2009

Crystal Wall, Onsighting as Rehab

Objective: Performance

Routes Sent:
Tour de Poudre (first pitch), 10b, onsight (first time outside/leading since getting injured, brilliant route, i was a mess and didn't completely enjoy it)

Silver Girl, 10c, onsight (really good, enjoyed myself)

Fahrenheit 11 (first pitch), 10b, onsight (deserves more traffic)

Ballet of the Bulge, 11b, onsight (widely spaced edges to committing crux)

Inyerbuttkwa, 10c, onsight (it is slabby, and i was heelhooking. I was done at this point)

Total Points: 21

Routes Tried:
Tool Man, 11c/d, 1 hang (80ft of 10a to V3/4 boulder problem, didn't really try because of the sun and my finger)

The only time I stopped long enough to take a picture was when Bryan was cleaning a route.

Notes: Since onsighting and volume training is all the rage right now, I decided to get some. I went to Crystal Wall for an after work session with one of the developers, Bryan. He could have set me up. I think I'm hot stuff, and he is local. He was very nice and didn't sandbag me too bad. Although his beta for one crux was, "There are two small holds, then two more small holds, and high feet." I don't know if that information invalidates an onsight, but it didn't really help. My finger felt great when I was climbing, it always does. It was a tiny bit swollen the next morning. It felt really nice to have slightly tired skin, shoulders, and feet.