Oct 23, 2009

The Palace, Dry Fire on Rapid Fire

Routes Sent: Unknown, 10(?), Onsight (first route in The Palace, pile down low to okay warm-up)
Strictly Business, 10c, Onsight (cryptic and blocky)
Death & Disfigured, 11c, Redpoint (1st try today, 2 tries last winter, skipped bolt to send)

Routes Tried: Rapid Fire, 12c/d, 2 tries (BTB, 2 hang)

The rock of The Palace

Alex matches the rock nicely

Rapid Fire
My path is in black.

My clipping stances are noted with a "P"

X marks a no-hand's rest I take

Notes: @ and I rolled up for a quick afternoon session at The Palace. I like the Palace. It is not the best or most interesting rock, but it is close to my house. I surprised myself with sending Death & Disfigured on the first burn of the day. I'm glad I sacked up and skipped a hard clip to send. I still have residual fear of missing a clip (but not skipping clips).

I got on Rapid Fire only because it was close. It is very much my style, crimpy boulder problems separated by rests. You can tell by the photos I clip every bolt (expect the first one) but climb a lot of the nearby Monstrosity. I use a different sequence from most people during the first crux. My left hand is on the "right hand" holds and my right hand is on crimps/microjugs out right. I should be able to send it the next session. I'm withholding a comment about the grade until I send.