Training: 1) Onsight, routes, 2 hours
9, 9+, 10, 10, 10+, 10+, 10+, 11, 11, 11, 11+, 11+, 11+,
2) Treadwall, 1:1, 15 minutes
Notes: A taper session for a short road trip, i.e. medium intensity, high volume day. I took one fall at the end of the last 11+.
This is my first experience with a treadwall. It is an interesting concept but I have yet to see the practical application. It is difficult/impossible to set the wall speed at a moderate pace, either it is very fast or very slow. It seems to require its own climbing technique. I didn't like the choice of climbing holds on this particular wall. There were no feet, I had a choice between the top of climbing hold bolts or sporadic large jugs. Whenever I try something new I train intuitively, the next time I'll do some long intervals.