Little Paw:
May 29, 2010
May 28, 2010
GC & C Tour, Stop 6 : Lake Tahoe
I simply love Tahoe. There is so much high quality rock. Posting up in a cabin is always rad. There was snow everywhere forcing us to climb at the Donner Lake State Park on the first day, not ideal but acceptable. The second day we stayed closer to home and developed a boulder about 100ft from the cabin.
A Leo Prancing
Day 1
Location: State Park
Sent:
Unnamed, V5, redpoint (split rock far half #16, 1st try today)
Unnamed, V1, flash (split rock near half, #8)
Bear Hug, V4, redpoint (1st go once I know where the holds where)
Bear Hug, V7, sds, redpoint (2nd try from the sit)
Location: Memorial Boulder
Tried:
Fat Boy, V11 (contrived but worked it for training proposes)
V10 (no clue?)
Day 2
Location: Classified
The Lion Boulder
Left to Right
Lion Cub, VB (downclimb arete)
Declawed, V1 (arete, contrived)
Mane Attraction, V1/2 (short but engaging heel hook)
The Prancing Lion, V0 (arete right to left)
Wrestling with a Lion, V1 (blunt arete)
Little Paw, V3 (sds to slopers)
Location: State Park
Sent:
Unnamed, V5, redpoint (split rock far half #16, 1st try today)
Unnamed, V1, flash (split rock near half, #8)
Bear Hug, V4, redpoint (1st go once I know where the holds where)
Bear Hug, V7, sds, redpoint (2nd try from the sit)
Location: Memorial Boulder
Tried:
Fat Boy, V11 (contrived but worked it for training proposes)
V10 (no clue?)
Day 2
Location: Classified
The Lion Boulder
Left to Right
Lion Cub, VB (downclimb arete)
Declawed, V1 (arete, contrived)
Mane Attraction, V1/2 (short but engaging heel hook)
The Prancing Lion, V0 (arete right to left)
Wrestling with a Lion, V1 (blunt arete)
Little Paw, V3 (sds to slopers)
May 25, 2010
GC & C Tour, Stop 5 : Red Rocks
The Road Goes On.
Day 1
757 2X4, 7, onsight
Bonaire, 9, onsight
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued, 9+, onsight
Need to Rest, 10b, onsight
Glitter Gluch, 11a, 2nd go (first go 1 year ago)
Rebel without a Pause, 11b, 2nd go (first go 8 years ago)
Crude Control, 12a, 3 tries (contrived but really fun)
Lee Press On, 12b, 2 tries (BTB, 1 hang)
Day 2
Crazy Eights, 8, Onsight (really good & long)
Mother's Milk, 8, Onsight (thinner than Crazy Eights)
Chrome Dome, 10a/b, Onsight (good stuff)
Sister Pain, 11b, Onsight (piss easy)
Sweet Pain, 11d, 2nd go (first go 1 year ago, didn't get even get pumped today - thanks to The Sessions and JS's training)
Lee Press On, 12b, 2 tries (2 X 1 fall, took a nice 20fter postcrux, still much to learn about sport climbing)
May 24, 2010
May 23, 2010
May 22, 2010
May 21, 2010
GC & C Tour, Stop 4 : Priest Draw
Day 1
I thought Priest Draw as going to be the high point of the trip. My plan was to dominate the gymnastic climbing on pockets. The first setback was only having a sketchy internet guidebook. Not good but better than nothing. The second setback was realizing I've no idea how to climb outside roofs. I didn't send anything after some random warm-ups. DAMN!
Beware of Priest Draw locals. They are honemasters. They know micro-tricks that I would not thought possible.
Day 2
I returned with a new frame, have fun and learn. I would look for good lines and try climb outside my box. I was sending-in-a-day the grade I typically flash. In the end, it was an enjoyable day in the forest. It would be awesome if they place had a decent guidebook.
Alex on the incredible warm-up boulder
Mono!!!
May 20, 2010
GC & C Tour, Stop 3 : Cibola National forest
May 19, 2010
GC & P Tour, Stop 2 : Jemez, NM
The next stop is a was a new-to-me area call The Pond near Jemez, NM. The volcanic rock in an higher altitude forest made for a wonderful afternoon out. There was no one on the rocks or in the campground, simply shocking for the quality of the place. I guess it's not trendy to climb there.
Problems Tried:
Problems Sent:
20 minute Boulder, V2, V4, V1, V5, V4, V4, V2, V3,
King for Day Boulder, V2, Flash
Reservoir Dogs, V4, Flash
Dot Dot Space, V5, Flash
Problems Tried:
King for a Day, V6, epic fail
Triple Mullet Blowjob, V10, 2 tries (endro traverse with horrible ending)
Pulp Friction, V10, 3 tries (1 move V10 dynos are HARD)
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