May 13, 2010

A Specialist At Everything

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) 20-30 moves, rest as needed, 2 blocks

3) Gymnastics Smorgasbord, 1 block

Notes: I "test" myself outside. I try to climb everything and look for patterns in failures. I learn almost nothing from flashing (even though it is fun).

"Any sticking point is mental, technical or physical"
Dave Tate

Here are the aspects of my climbing I have the most room for improvement right now:

1. Aretes
Mental - hard to overpower, need to trust myself
Technical - outside aretes are way different from inside aretes
Physical - not a meaningful sticking point

2. Underclings
Mental - need to accept that they are awkward at first but better after moving into them
Technical - don't know when to turn it or how to shift my weight
Physical - not a meaningful sticking point

3. Lip Traverses
Mental - most are contrive, lowering my syke
Technical - avoid foot cutting, over rely on power
Physical - improve power endurance in the 10-15 move range

4. Continuous Steep
Mental - like to be in control which is hard when pumped
Technical - over rely on power, need to take time to find "tricks"
Physical - improve power endurance in the 10-15 move range

I finally sacked up and made it to CATS. I felt right at home, problems I couldn't do and obsessed locals who eschew outside climbing. They have premium holds (regardless of age) everywhere and all the proper angles (no roofs). My skin was jacked up so I stuck to endurance circuits. CATS is setup so you can traverse through the gym without touching the ground. Simply RAD. If I hit a move that didn't flow perfectly, I went back and repeated it until it did. At the end, I practiced back levers, kipping pull-ups, dip walking, and got on the trampoline (first time in 10 years!).

The gymnastic portion of CATS follows an optimal gym paradigm. Lots of classes at different levels. In addition, open gym time. Most CrossFit facilities have lots of classes at the same level with no open gym. CrossFit has the fun toys but doesn't like to share.