Objective : Climbing Strength, Climbing Power Endurance
Warm-up : Flash, 5.10, 5.10 (I got on a rope at the gym!)
Training : (1) Flash, 5.12- *
(2) Hard bouldering, 45 minutes
(3) 3 rounds (+10, +20, +20)
10 system board laps (4 moves), smallest crimps
rest 10s between laps
rest 5 minutes between rounds
(4) 4X4 (A,A,A,I)
rest 2:00 between sets
(5) 3 rounds
10 L-sit scissors
3 HSPU
(5) 3 rounds
15 weighted sit-ups, 45
15 pushups
(6) 3 rounds
5 shoulder scarecrow, 5X2
10 reverse wrist curls, 10
* I didn’t completely flash the route because I weighted the rope when my foot skated on a dual texture hold. I immediately pulled back on and finished the climb.
Notes : The 5.12- is currently the hardest route in the gym. It would be tricky to get a workout if I roped up in the gym. I would have to climb with a weight pack or do lots of laps. I don’t know any like-minded training partners for those types of shenanigans.
I have been “chipping” the hard Open problems down to my level by adding extra feet. It is working very well. The ultimate goal is to send them with tracking feet. I miss my old training walls that had open/any feet. It allows you to climb with the best technique you possess. Taped/marked feet forces you to climb the “best” technique the setter possesses.
The holds in my gym are so old they were made before crimping was invented. 80% are open hand, and 19% are jugs. The remaining 1% you can crimp, but none of them are on hard problems. All my outside projects have crimps on them so I figure I should train them, wacky SAID idea. The system board laps got ridiculous. I was climbing on the smallest/slopest feet, completely open and with only one foot on. Currently, my weight vest only goes up to +20lbs. I have to replace the sand pellets with lead!
My performance on the 4X4s is still improving. I maintained the same difficulty but dropped the rest time by 30s per set.
This is the end of my power endurance cycle. I will do a couple of stamina sessions before I leave for a 3 week climbing trip. Joe's Valley, Red Rocks, and Yosemite!!
