Mar 23, 2009

Las Vegas, Day 1, Home of the Yuppie Climber

Objective: Performance

Problems Sent:
I Disagree, V1, flash
Unnamed (Bathtub boulder), V2, 2nd go (foot broke on flash)
Charleston Syndrome, V3, flash
The Clam Bumper, V3, flash
Odyssey, V3, flash
Unnamed (Bill’s Boulder), V3, flash
Unnamed (slopey traverse boulder), V4, 3rd go, (good problem, no chalk)
Rub One Off, V4, 2nd go
Bathtub, V5, 2nd go
Classic Monkey, V6, project

Total Points: 28

Problems Tried:
a bunch of contrived turd balls
The Pearl, V4, 3 tries (this problem is epic for me, WTF)
My Tan, V6, 2 tries (hard deadpoint stopper move)
No Top, V6, 2 tries (flashed to deadpoint, couldn’t commit)



video
Grunting & Punting

Notes: The weather was nearly perfect at Kraft Boulders. I have sent almost all the easy classics, expect The Pearl. The send of the day was Classic Monkey, V6. I have tried it on/off for years. I decided today was the day. It took me 10 minutes to remember my sequence and 1 hour to execute. I don't know if it is the best method since I have never seen anyone else on it. I almost did 3rd try but punted going for the jugs. Trying to send a project is a horrible experience for me. I feel weak, heavy, and old. After I sent, a switch flicked. A wave of joy and adrenaline engulfed me. It made the extended effort worth it.

I’m enjoying my Zone meal at Whole Foods. I will crank soon, then enjoy the hot tub at the hotel.