Protoplasmal Primordial Atomic Globule

Objective: Climbing Power Endurance, Short Intervals

Warm-up: (1) Climb lots of problems with open feet

(2) Flash, Int x 4, up and down

Training: (1) Technique, roof climbing, drop knees

(2) Flash, Adv X 3
Redpoint, Open x 1

(3) Various crimp moves/hangs

(4) Rhythm Intervals, system, lower right
2 rounds
30 on/30 ar/ 30 on/ 30 off
30 on/30 off/ 30 on/ 30 ar
rest 4 minutes between rounds

(4) Technique, repeat

Today was a #2 day, either bad skin or tired.
Tomorrow is a well earned rest day.

Notes: I bubbling over with training ideas from the clinics in Lander. O-dub discussed the idea of proper body positioning, instead of looking for footholds. Climbing with any feet is method to reinforce proper body positioning. You use the best technique you posses, not the best technique the route setter possesses.

Steve Bechtel always focuses on technical improvements by training it first and last. I realize that I can break down my roof climbing suckage into elements. I used large handholds but dropped kneed on every move with no foot cutting.

I actually redpointed a boulder problem. CRAZY. The difference was switching to redpoint speed, i.e. <2 seconds on each hold/no messing around.

My skin was hurting from 5 days on. I did more maximal crimp hangs than actual moves.

Rhythm Intervals are a super secret training method from Steve Bechtel.