The Slow Clap

Objective: Climbing Strength (or Strugglin'), Climbing Power Endurance, Long Intervals, Technique

Training: (1) Technique, Roof, Dropknees, Bicycles, Hand/Foot Match

(2) Threshold Bouldering, 40 minutes

rest 6 hours

(3) Long Intervals, rest as needed, 45 minutes
climb Adv, recover on wall, repeat until failure

Technique, Roof, Hand/Foot Match

Threshold Bouldering, sorta

Notes: I feel so weak. I tried flashing the new problems and got shut down on all of them. All grades: Advanced, Advanced +, Open -, and Open. I couldn't pull off the ground on most of them. The session felt very unproductive because I couldn't link more than 3 moves together. Most of the time I couldn't even pull one move. I thought it was just a bad day, but I could run laps on problems I have already done (at similar grades). It makes no sense. I feel like my bouldering is a zero or one. I can run laps on a climb or can't climb it all. I hate bouldering.

I tried to redeem myself with some endurance training. I went really LONG with the intervals, linking 4-5 problems together. I stuck mostly to Advanced problems. I was focusing on resting/recovering on the wall. I do okay at recovering on vertical. Once it gets steep, it feels like resting takes more energy. I'm forcing myself to learn how to recover on steepness. When I throw something new in my training, I use an intuitive approach. I didn't keep track of the exact number of moves, work/rest ratio, and quit when I felt tired.