Jun 17, 2009

Lake Tahoe, Day 2, Granite Legs

Objective: Performance

Routes Sent: Moon Shadow, 10d, onsight (good route, pumped & desperate at end)
Kwijiwabo, 11a, onsight (varied and full value, pumped, legs shaking, and scared)
Short Subject, 11d, onsight (completely my style, felt EASY)

Total Points: 20

Routes Tried: Brain Child, 12b, 3 tries (brilliant route, scary mantle 10ft above last bolt)

Bonus: Interview I agree with Mark Twight/Gym Jones. Too bad he doesn't train climbers anymore.

Alex becoming more confident but not complacent.

The After Work Crowd

Notes: I'm settling into the Self Coached Climber's suggested performance guidelines, a series of progressively harder (but doable) onsights and then work on a redpoint project. I want to kept the volume of climbing at this minimum. This type of granite requires precise feet and extreme flexibility. I doubling down on the static stretching in the evenings to speed up the transition from gym to crag.

One of my primary goals for this trip was an onsight of "Short Subject." It is 3 bolt steep sport climb. Lots of hype in my head for 90 seconds of climbing. It was awesome to get it done on the first full day.

If I want a redpoint project "Brain Child" is rad one. It starts with V5 move right off the ground and stays in your face for 50ft until a boulder problem exit.