Jun 14, 2009

Red Rocks, The Hotness

Objective: Climbing Performance

Routes Sent: The Runaway, 10a/b, onsight (good climb, in the sun)
Range of Motion, 10d, onsight (fun, usually it is a ripper magnet)
Basement, 11b/c, flash (brilliant route, yes - I kneebarred)

Total Points: 15

Routes Tried: Social Disorder, 11d, 3 tries (in the sun, redpoint falls at big awkward move)

Future - Crag Dog
Currently - Mogwai

Notes: The next day Phil, Elijah, and I cranked at Red Rocks. It was unseasonably cool, low 80s. I typically wilt like a flower in the sun and heat, but I climbed surprisingly well today.

Every time I have been to The Gallery there has been a line of rippers on "Range of Motion." Today I got lucky and was able to onsight it without the crowds. Judging by amount of chalk, "Social Disorder" might be the least popular route at The Gallery. Despite the relative lack of traffic, it has fun moves. One big move shut me down during my redpoint attempts. I have difficulties with big moves between medium-sized holds. This shutdown move was similar to my nemesis move on "Short Dog." I'll attack this weakness when I start my next training cycle.

The highlight of the day was Elijah on Sunsplash, which he thought was Monster Skank. Both are proud, classic 13b routes. However, I think Monster Skank proper is more Crankenstein style.

I ended the day with a flash of Basement, via heel hooks and a kneebar. I don't to hear anything about my style since I sent.