Jun 18, 2009

Lake Tahoe, Day 3, Operation Old School

Objective: Climbing Technique

Routes Sent: Eyes of Silver, 10b/c, 3rd go (1st try today)
Easy Street, 10c, 2nd go (drilled slab, WTF?)

Routes Tried: Crack a No Go, 10a, bail (trad)
The Heckler, 11a, 1 try (slab)
Bolt Run, 10d, 1 try (slab)

Bonus: Mountain Athlete's current view on training for climbing - here

Photo Evidence:
Me on a trad climb

Notes: Today was a training day at the crags. I suck at slab climbing. I swallowed a small part of my pride and thrutched up some slab. The first stop was "Road Cut" Crag. The entire cliff is a drilled chossy POS. I started up "Easy Street", a drilled slab. One word - TWEAKY. I've trouble onsighting drilled routes. They frequently required full extension moves which are hard to commit to the first time up a route. I foolishly thought the trad line at the cliff would be higher quality. It was for the first 20ft before it turned into kitty litter granite. I tucked my tail between my legs and left the cliff.

The rest of day was spent on the immaculate low-angle granite of "Peanut Gallery." I practiced my slab skills until my feet ached and I crimped a bruise into my finger. The physical aspects are progressing but the mental game is still weak.