2) Open Hand, Systemboard
Upper Left, Pull Through with extra small feet
3) Open Hand, Hangboard
Flat Slopers, Switches, 3 rounds
4) 1/2 crimp, System board
#1, Pull through with extra small feet
1 hour Yoga break
5) Prefect Repeats, Adv Problem, 45 minutes
6) 1-arm pull-ups, 3X3 (with assistance)
7) Abs & repeated effort for 1-arms
Notes: There were 2 moves I couldn't flash. More evidence my training is working. I'm over the hill, 30, and not genetically gifted. Simple, hard, focused training has improved my climbing leaps and bounds in the last year. Anyways, both moves involved pinches. That limiter keeps rearing its head. I keep ignoring it. I have never been shut down by a pinch move outside. I'm stepping up my system boarding by using the smallest feet available, always onto the next level.
I have been doing Yoga off and on for about 6 years. Every since I have stopped "cross-training," I have been practicing more. 2x a week at home and 1-2x a week at a class. Backbends are incredibly hard for me. One time I almost passed out trying a Camel Pose in a Bikram's Yoga class. On the other hand, 1-leg balancing is joke (probably from Oly lifting). The "core" work is a joke (probably from gymnastics). Yoga won't do everything, it is not even the best "training" for most things, but it keeps me from becoming a hunchback stressball.
The perfect practice went well. I repeated the problems I flashed before, each one 3x in a row. It is amazing how subtle changes drastically increase efficiency. I feel I have at least 5 more years of consistency climbing before I fully understand climbing movement, probably more like 20 years.
