Feb 17, 2010

5FHAR Area, Just Another Wednesday

5FHAR is my codename for the area, since I don't know the "official" name. I plan to hit this area hard before the river reclaims it.

I warm-up by climbing this interesting part of the bank.
Climbing is the" space" was V0. Climbing the "feature" was V3.
River polished granite is tricksy.

Green Line, V0/1 - Short but good warm-up
Red Line, V8 - SDS, good crimps to committing last move, stand start is V7
Yellow Solid Line, V4 - SDS, Jugs to a long pull off a ring lock
Yellow Dotted Line, V5/12b - 30ft traverse into above line

It was satisfying sending two lines in completely different styles. The Red Line is 5 moves of slightly technical, hardish crimping. Yellow Dotted Line is 40ft of steep, sustained, sloper pulling. I had to dig a little deeper than normal to send the Red Line. The Yellow Dotted Line me realize how much I missed hard roped climbing. So far, it is the top contender for my Rad Redpoint of the Year.

Yellow Line, V3 - Another slab to roof, interesting movement
Green Line, VO - Dirty jug haul

an Ice Bloc necessity

Waiting for shoes to dry,
just like Deep Water Soloing