Jun 5, 2010

GC & C Tour, Stop 6 : Santa Maria, CA

The last lag of The Green Chili and Pockets Tour was Mr. Lee's of Santa Maria, CA. First off, Highway 166 is fucking scary. I don't know how Phil drives it weekly. I would have to be sedated.

Crankenstein on Buddhist Palm
Mr. Project Projecting

St. Maria climbers is an odd tribe. The men, Phil and Elijah, were on Buddhist Palm, 13d. The boys, Justin and Micah, were on Hard Boiled, 13b. That left Andre and I on Sea of Love, 12b. It was fun commiserating/exchanging beta with her, a change of pace from working stuff out by myself.

I feel like Sport Climbing Brian 2.0, lighter, smarter, and a better state of mind. However, this route is bad for me. Easy(ish) climbing leads to a 5 move boulder problem. The crux is a scary slightly awkward clip in the middle of the problem. Micah likened it to posing down in the middle of a lock-off on a highball. If the crux of a route is a clip, the route probably sucks. I should either skip the route or skip the clip.

It comes down to the basic elements of life, Love and Fear. Right now, I enter a state of joy and focus when moving over stone. The fear of missing clips pulls me out of that state. Some days, I feel The Fear all the time. Today it was just during the one clip.


Hard Boiled, 13b
Approved Rehab for an Exploded Ankle

Getting After It
The Crew Approves

Sharing Footholds and Syke

Another highlight was a syked local crew from SLO came by. I ran into them at Mr. Lee's and Owl Tor. I love The Tor more. It is steep and unrelenting, a physically menacing cliff. It makes climbers stick together to fight it. Mr. Lee's is more open. Climbers spread out and find their own roost.

It always an adventure. Lucky me, I got to see a rattlesnake! Earlier in the day, people were trap shooting into the crag. SERIOUSLY! I was happy to pass on the oral knowledge of the area.

Beer, Bugs, & Friends

Still Getting After IT

Bonus: A circuit of moderate bouldering in SLO and dinner on the beach.

Routes sent:
?, 9, Onsight (First Santa Maria onsight, scary mantle)

11b, 1 hang
Sea of Love, 12b, 4 tries (BTB, 3 one hangs)