Jun 9, 2010

Maybe "Nothing" Is The Best Model

Training: 1) Technique, 1 block

2) RI, 1 block

3) Power Touches, 3 sets

4) Pull-ups, 3 sets

Notes: One thing I learned from Rob Shaul of Mountain Athlete is the power of progressions. The idea you start where you at and move towards your goal in small measurable steps. One counter example is people skipping grades, frequently in an indoor setting. Gravitating towards the new, therefore cooler, problems or the ones their buddies are working. All my training is based on progressions, both micro and macro. One example is my technique work today. The micro progression is:

First, do the problem with both legs.
Second, do the same problem with only the weaker leg.
Third, do the same problem with there only the stronger leg.
Fourth, do the same problem with both legs (hopefully with refinement over lap #1)

This is part of a larger marco progression aimed at adding diversity to my climbing movement. I drop knee a lot, probably more than I should. It is frequently easier to do the individual moves but keeps me on a climb longer. I need to be able to move with more momentum and less foot combinations (several hand movements with the same feet).

#1 - Foot Hoover, Decompress, Leg Combinations #2 - Horrible. My ability to recover is definite limiter. I'm only able to recover on mega jugs and there are no mega jugs at CATS. Dave Mcleod in his book "9 out of 10 climbers ..." discuses focusing on the aspect of climbing that has the highest derivative, i.e. rate of change. Recovery ability on marginal holds is that aspect for me. #3 - My back is often the most tired muscle after climbing outside. I'm not sure how to best train it. #4 - I suck at high volume pull-ups.