Jan 20, 2009

Princes of the Palace

Objective : Performance

Routes Sent :
Rapunzel, Rapunzel, 10a (flash)
Citadel, 11b, (onsight, topped out the cliff, 14 bolts!!)

Routes Tried :
Monstrosity, 10b, 1 try, 1 hang (frigid, polished, pumpy warmup)
Death and Disfiguration, 11c, 3 tries (blocky choss = crazy kneebar beta, aka welcome to Colorado)
A Dazed Work, 11d, 3 tries (fell at boulder problem crux 3x, 14 bolts!!)

Ticklist :
Rapid Fire 12d/13a (can toprope from Monstroisty, my style = crimpy, thug climbing)
Small Fry 12b (short and good)
Sporting Green 12b (short and good)

Jason getting ready to battle the blocky choss. I'm 3 for 3 for finding new climbing partners named Jason.

This is the other side of the Poudre River. WOW! The main wall has multipitch sport, and the face in the sun is super steep.

Notes: Today was why I moved to CO. I climbed long, great climbs in the middle of winter. I cranked at the "Palace" located by the Poudre River. The rock is some odd type of gneiss which can be a little chossy but cleans up nice. Some of the climbs were 14 bolts/30m. Coming from CA, that is marathon climbing. The "Citadel" (11b) is my proudest onsight. I felt very close on everything but couldn't keep it together. I need at least two day of rest after climbing intervals, and I might drop all cross training. It is on!!!