Jan 28, 2009

As American As Herpes and Hotdogs

Objective : Climbing Power

Warm-up :(1) Circuit 1
Mobility Drills
Circuit 2

(2) Flash new Recreation and Intermediate problem
Fail on new Advanced and Open problem

Training (1) Big Rungs, ladders

(2) Medium Rungs, drops
6-1-5 X 2

(3) Small Rungs, ladders
1-4-6 X 3

(4) Big Rungs, matching
two fingers

Notes : Another pre-work session. These are the first problems in the gym that shut me down. They were set by someone with a very different style then me. One problem has big moves with small feet. The other problem has high bunchy feet. I tend to push a lot with my feet down low, trying to generate movement from my legs, hips, and back. A least now I have some projects and they will prepare me for different setting styles in the comp. I'm ramping campusing back up. Because of the pull-ups yesterday, I couldn't pull through very well. My fingers were fresh so I could catch everything I got near. I need to use fewer fingers or add wieght to the medium rungs. I started two finger campusing even though I'm preparing for the indoor comp. Indoor comps tend not to have pockets. If they do, they are soft for the grade/points. My hope is fingers strong in isolation, two, will be strong together, open hand.

Bonus :
Hierarchy of Campusing
1) hang and shrug - both hands on same rung and shrug, physical and mental preparation for campusing, especially important for female climbers

2) matching - hands start staggered, e.g. one hand on #2 and the other on #1, and move lower hand up to match upper hand, excellent and underutilized method for incorporating harder moves

3) ladders - both hands on same rung and move one hand up at a time, most people start and stay here, probably a mistake

4) drops - hands start staggered and drop upper hand to match lower hand, powerful and effective, easy to make incremental improvements

5) doubles - both hands on same rung and both hands move up at the same time, much harder but difficult to make incremental improvements

6) double drops - both hands on same rung and both hands move down at the same time, very difficult (maybe just for me) and high risk of injury

These are basics. Feel free to mix and match.