Objective: Climbing Power Endurance
Warm-up : Circuit #1 (up and down all Recreation problems)
Mobility Drills
Circuit #2 ( up and down most Intermediate problems)
Training :
(1) Dyno practice, 15 minutes
(2) 4X8 (problems = A,A,I,A,I,I,I,I), rest 5 minutes between sets
rest 10
(3) 4X4 (problems= A,I,I,I), rest 5 minutes between sets
rest 30 minutes
(4) ARC, 15 minutes
Notes: After getting shut down in Vegas, I realized I suck at dynos. I think it is a mental issue. When you dyno you are out of control, and I like being in control. I spent the begining of the session practicing one of my weaknesses. I have good handle on the gym problems so I can start climbing intervals. The session was suppose to 6X8, but I had nothing in the tank/forearms by the 5 set. I changed the workout to finish with the fewer, easier problems and keep the long rest. That is why workouts are written on whiteboards. At least I have a training goal : a full 6X8. The Self-Coached Climber states "Whereas 4X4s effectively target the fitness level for short, hard routes, 6X8s are of lower intensity and longer duration and target fitness level required for on-sighting." I have plans to on-sight many sport climbs, locally on Tuesday and Vegas this weekend. I tried to ARC at the end : I HATE TRAVERSING IN THE GYM.
